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#797142 11/12/2011 12:53 AM
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I installed the replacement rubber seal around the door frame; my question is the rubber drip molding/sealer using weather strip adhesive installed around the inside of the door. Should the rubber with the V type seal be installed with the cut on the top, bottom, or side? I was wondering if I hung the long rubber seal over the door and started to glue it to the door on the top moving to the bottom then the cut would be on the bottom of the door in the middle, taking into consideration gravity I suspect that might not be the best place to start and end the seal. Does anyone have the answer on where to start and then obviously end the seal as I go around the inside of the door? Any suggestions? It is a 53 Chevy 3100. Thanks John

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'Bolter
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The seal was originally joined at the bottom about 10" back from the front of the door.
This should show you the orientation of the seal.
http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/image/118767771
As a side note, it's much easier to install the seal with the doors taken off and laying flat.
Denny Graham
Sandwich, Il

Last edited by Denny Graham; 11/12/2011 2:40 PM.

Denny G
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Thanks Denny, Good Tip also laying in flat on something like the living room carpet also! I'll see how that goes over. Hmmm... well it's my house to.

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I would also recommend having an extremely clean surface. Another tip is NOT to use TOO much adhiesve being sure it has time to dry to a nice tacky finish. I kept the cut part on the bottom of the door also. While the door is off, good time to check the hinges also...

I'm curious where you got your seal from? Some are better then others.

Good luck. Keep us updated.


David Gilmore
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Thanks Dave.

Part #47-20530-L Has a blue SuperSeal certified sticker on it. Also says manufactured by Counterpart.

1947-55 1st seris Door Weatherstripping (Pair).

I think I might have gotten it from Chev's of the 40's or LMC. One of the 4 or so companies I have bought parts from but I don't remember where I bought it unless I went through my receipts.

Thanks John

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I looked into this a while back, Counterpart is just a west coast office with a few people working there. All the manufacturing is done by off shore companies mostly in China and they serve as the distributor.

DG


Denny G
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Well, Denny, now I'm crushed. I bought quite a few parts from The Truck Shop that were labeled "Counterpart". The packaging is first class. The parts fit. So I thought that I had found the elusive perfect supplier. Now you tell me that they are just another importer buying parts from a Communist country.


- Lonnie
My '54 3104
Photos that I have shared on Stovebolt via PhotoBucket are no longer available. Please contact me if you want a photo from an old post.
lonniecook [at] aol [dot] com. I sold my '54 3104 12/12/2017, but I still visit Stovebolt.

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Sir Searchalot
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It's ok to deal with China, they own 51% of the U.S.

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we went thru this sometime back, Counterpart's suppliers are in Taiwan, nearly all repro parts have been subbed out to Asian suppliers nowadays, even most originally done by US suppliers to GM specs - what counts is how well the contractor monitors quality - and Counterparts Automotive is pretty good

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature we find it attached to the rest of the world" John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" me
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Bill -

I didn't see the original discussion. Counterpart and The Truck Shop are both in Orange CA. Just wondering if they are sister companies. I was pleased with the quality of the parts. And, like I said, the quality of the packaging contributed to my satisfaction.


- Lonnie
My '54 3104
Photos that I have shared on Stovebolt via PhotoBucket are no longer available. Please contact me if you want a photo from an old post.
lonniecook [at] aol [dot] com. I sold my '54 3104 12/12/2017, but I still visit Stovebolt.

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I much doubt they're related, Counterpart supplies virtually everyone, Canada as well as USA, and including many FLAPS

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature we find it attached to the rest of the world" John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" me
Some TF series details & TF heater pics & Rust-a-holics Unanimous parking lot
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I started to install the rubber seal on the door. I did not remove the door but decided to do it on the truck. I am doing it in sections using clips and magnets holding it in place until the weather strip adhesive dries. I got to the bottom of the door and I see there are 2 holes on the bottom of the drivers door and none on the passenger door. After investigation on the internet and looking through all my parts I found a new set of bottom door strip holders I must have order years ago and looking through more parts I see I have ordered a set of bottom door seals. 50-20520 (Counterpart also) both brand new and both black so they will look fine, but that was a number of years back. I assume my body man filled in the holes for the bottom sill holder save 2 on the drivers side that line up exactly so that gives me the place to mount them and drill out the other holes and then carry that pattern over to the other side. Does anyone have a actual picture of how they look installed on the truck? The online catalog has a blown up section but not in detail of the orientation of the seal and what way is up?

Thanks in advance if you can assist. John

Pictures added, Can you help me?

Click Here for Door Seal Pics

Last edited by 53John3100; 11/18/2011 9:51 PM. Reason: Pictures added
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Thanks if you can look at my new door seal pics and have an answer. John

Door Seal Pictures

Last edited by 53John3100; 11/19/2011 1:19 AM.
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Bubba - Curmudgeon
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The seal that you ran down both sides of the interior of the door are supposed to turn-in on the bottom of both corners and join together under that metal strip.

The picture and the next picture show the seal under that metal strip.

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Holy Mackerel Tim, wow. They sold me that as a door seal. Your door looks so professional. I guess I shouldn't have ordered off the website without knowing first. Ok well I will take the rubber seal off the door, get rid of the weather strip sealer, order a new set and start all over again. Thanks so much for telling me how to do it the right way.

John

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Bubba - Curmudgeon
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John,

Maybe Denny will post a link to his excellent photos of the door seal? Maybe he will have a suggestion on how to salvage what you have already done.

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Well maybe, if I can ever get the computer rebooted, the camera working, the light right, the photo album sorted out, etc, etc....

So ok, here are a few shots (4) at the bottom of the page that should answer any questions about the weather seals.

http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/1950_doors&page=all
DG


Denny G
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OK Thanks for the reboot, the right light and the album sorted out Denny. I guess the repop companies are selling a separate bottom door seal. I for one fell for it. I think I got mine from LMC. Other websites like Chev’s of the 40’s list them also. I will remove the piece I cut and order a new one and redo it to reflect the proper way as per the pictures.

Thanks John.

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There is a seperate bottom door seal but it doesn't go on your door, it screws to the cab floor and seals against the bottom of the door a few inches up.

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Last edited by Denny Graham; 11/20/2011 1:51 AM.

Denny G
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Thanks, Got it done and doesn't look bad with beveled corners. I think it will let the rain run out (it is never out of the garage in the rain anyway) and also seal the outside noise out. Thanks Denny and to everyone who helped me understand this problem. Once again Stovebolt members educated me. Thanks John

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When applying your weatherstrip, it's a good idea to put a coating of adhesive on your pieces, then allowing to dry almost completely. Then before attaching, add a very small amout of adhesive to all surfaces before pushing into place.

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Squeeze -

I did a search on Counter Parts and The Truck Shop - both in Orange CA. They are owned by the same person. FWIW, I have been happy with the Counter Parts items from The Truck Shop.


- Lonnie
My '54 3104
Photos that I have shared on Stovebolt via PhotoBucket are no longer available. Please contact me if you want a photo from an old post.
lonniecook [at] aol [dot] com. I sold my '54 3104 12/12/2017, but I still visit Stovebolt.

OLD STUFF ... houses, furniture, cars, wine ... I love it all
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Lonnie - Counterparts is an import company, The Truck Shop is a retail operation, who owns them is really immaterial, neither is a manufacturer - Counterparts imports the parts from Asia and sells them to everyone, and like I said, they're decent parts and the only thing available for many items, I've never bought anything from The Truck Shop but never had a problem with Counterparts items from any other place including NAPA

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature we find it attached to the rest of the world" John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" me
Some TF series details & TF heater pics & Rust-a-holics Unanimous parking lot
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Where did you get your information about Counterpart Automotive Lonnie????
I’ve looked into this on several different occasions and tried to chase them down, never
did have any luck. The closest I’ve come is that a lot of it comes from Taiwan and from a
dozen international manufacturers. I’ve found no ties between the two companies. The
only listing I’ve found also shows way to little annual revenue for a company that
supplies as large a volume of part and they have to employ way more people than what
I’ve found listed on the internet.
It would be interesting to actually contact someone within the company and get the real skinny on the business.

Counterpart Automotive Inc.
419 W Brenna Ln
Orange, CA 92867-5637
Phone: 1-714-771-1732
1) Annual revenue less than $500,000 employs 1-4
http://www.manta.com/c/mmy8jnw/counterpart-automotive-inc

2) Confusing info, something to do with shipping from 2007-2011
http://panjiva.com/Counterpart-Automotive/1954410

3) Annual revenue $500,000 to $999,999 employs 5-10
http://start.cortera.com/company/research/k3m6kqr0k/counterpart-automotive/

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Truck and Car Shop Inc.
739 North Batavia,
Orange, CA 92868
Phone: 1-714-771-0407 or 1-800-243-8947


Denny G
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here's some skinny for ya Denny:
Walter Fromke, president of Counterpart Automotive Inc(1985), Eric Froemke as CFO [son?]....
Walter Froemke president of Truck Shop(1985) .... [actually Truck and Car Shop, including Ford truck and car parts]
and Fargo Automotive(1999), which appears to own several repair shops ....
and Oval Industries (founded 2002) - check the "visualizer" here, quite the entrepreneur grin

appears to be an older gent whose wife died recently ohwell


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature we find it attached to the rest of the world" John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" me
Some TF series details & TF heater pics & Rust-a-holics Unanimous parking lot
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Posts: 1,232
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>> EDIT: SQUEEZE ... you posted while I was writing my response. Maybe you and I should join the IRS. We'll track 'em down!

Denny -

Here is the info I used to draw my conclusion:

MANTA --

> Counterpart Automotive Owner & Pres: Walter (T) Fromke
http://www.manta.com/c/mmy8jnw/counterpart-automotive-inc

> Truck Shop Pres: Walter T Froemke
http://www.manta.com/c/mmd6j3c/truck-shop

> Car Shop Owners: Walter Froemke; Ty Froemke
http://www.manta.com/c/mm84c5j/car-shop


CORPORATIONWIKI --

> Counterpart Officers:
http://www.corporationwiki.com/California/Orange/counterpart-automotive-inc/41992801.aspx

> The Truck Shop Officers:
http://www.corporationwiki.com/California/Orange/truck-shop/41270699.aspx

> Erick G. Froemke: Counterpart and Truck Shop
http://www.corporationwiki.com/California/Orange/eric-g-froemke/41270704.aspx



Last edited by LonnieC; 12/30/2011 4:59 PM.

- Lonnie
My '54 3104
Photos that I have shared on Stovebolt via PhotoBucket are no longer available. Please contact me if you want a photo from an old post.
lonniecook [at] aol [dot] com. I sold my '54 3104 12/12/2017, but I still visit Stovebolt.

OLD STUFF ... houses, furniture, cars, wine ... I love it all
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,262
Bubba - Curmudgeon
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Originally Posted by obrien1952gmc
There is a seperate bottom door seal but it doesn't go on your door, it screws to the cab floor and seals against the bottom of the door a few inches up.

The vendors usually call the seal that goes on the door a "door seal". The seal that goes around the door opening on the cab is called "windlace". There is also a lower cab windlace that is attached to the cab with a retainer across the floor at the door opening (most likely the piece that obrien is describing).

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I always assumed that the rubber molding separation would help drain any water that may accumulate also.

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So, tks for your research guys.
Ok, just to settle this, I called a listing for a business simply listed as "Truck Shop" in
Orange, CA., a different address and phone number than “The Truck and Car Shop” and
“Counterparts Automotive Inc.” The gentleman that answered was a little reluctant to
discuss his relationship with the other businesses and wanted to know where I got his
phone number. But he finally did tell me that this was the general offices and he was the
owner of "Counterpart Automotive, Inc." and I also managed to get him to tell me that the
"Truck and Car Shop" was owned by his son which is the retail outlet for the businesses.
As reluctant as he was to discuss the business, I didn’t dare ask if he was the owner listed
in the profiles you guys found using the online search engines.

I guess if I were one of the people responsible for importing some of these parts that we
consumers complain about on a daily basis I would hide behind as many doors as I could
also. Otherwise I’d be spending all my time explaining why I just kept importing ill-
fitting parts over and over even though I knew they were made incorrectly.
I do have to say, I’ve used a lot of Counterpart parts and not all of the parts are poorly
made but enough of them are that I think we have every right to complain about the
quality control or lack of it.

I think we verged off subject far enough and its probably time to put a cork in this one.

Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

Last edited by Denny Graham; 12/30/2011 7:01 PM.

Denny G
Sandwich, IL

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