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Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 122
5
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
5 Offline
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 122
Need some advice on inspecting and replacing front hub bearings.

While driving around last night, I noticed a bit of a wobble and funny noise in the front of the truck after making a hard left hand turn. After about a half mile it seeemed to go away and come back, and about a mile later the wobble was back to point that I pulled off at a buddy's place to check the front end out. After getting it up in the air and looking at both sides, came to the conclusion it was the Left Hand side that needed to be looked at, so at luck would have it I am tearing my front hub apart at dusk in a driveway.

To make a long story short, the outer ball bearing race had desctructed, and I was able to pull two balls out at two different spots. The inner appeared to be intact, so under the lovely glow of a flashlight I made the decision to put it all back together and venture the last mile home and it is now sitting in the garage. I am hopeful I did not score the spindle, or damage the hub, but figured I would ask a few questions before tearing it apart like:
- How do I determine if the hub or spindle were damaged?
- How do I determin if the inner bearing is next to go?
- What should I look for on the right hand side when I tear that one apart prior to another drive?

I should add, that I have the tapered conversion on order from CPP, for the past month, as a planned upgrade with disc brakes later this fall. I want to get the truck bak onthe road, but do not want to wast $40 on a new outer to find out I end up ruining something, or that another portion of the bearings fail. I am assuming that even if the tapereds were in my hand right now they are not a simple pull the rollers and swap them out. Nor am I assuming I could slip the outer taper on and leave inner ball?

Help....

signed, Frustrated & Disappointed

p.s. this is not doing much to instill confidence from my wife who thinks a 57 is a cool truck if it is someone elses...keeps saying I should have bought an SSR

Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 8,597
W
Riding in the Passing Lane
Riding in the Passing Lane
W Offline
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 8,597
These old trucks take a lot of maintenance. You should go over it real good or get someone to check it out for you. If the inner part of the bearing came out ok then you have not hurt the spindle. Changing to the roller brgs. is a good idea. If you ordered them about a month ago they should have been there long ago. That happened the last order I got from CCP. After 2 weeks I called on a Monday & they said it would be there by weds. & it was. Those ball bearings are expensive. It would be a shame to buy a new one & then get the rollers. If they can,t get them to you cancel it & call Classic Parts. They will ship them right away. You will have to drive out the races in the hub & put the new ones in. I believe there is a post on this recently in this forum.


They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing.
1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne Super
In the Gallery Forum
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 122
5
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
5 Offline
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 122
Well I received the bearings from CPP late last night and had the driver side changed out the evening and back on the road! It was a daunting task as I did not want to mess anything up, but after realizing how much force it was going to take to drive the races out, I was set.

A couple quick follow up questions though:

1. What should I torque a roller bearing hub to? And how far is it acceptable to back off to allow installing the cotter key?

2. Is there any benefit to packing the entire hub with grease? I have the rollers fully packed and on the inner had enough that when I put the seal in it squirted back around it. On the outter also packed to the point that the washer was forcing grease back out. I did not put any grease between the inner and outer bearings. Also I did not fill the hub cover with grease.

I am going to take the passenger side apart tomorrow just to check out the bearings to make sure I do not get another failure while driving. I plan to torque that to 30 lb ft as it is still ball bearings.

Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 483
B
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
B Offline
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 483
Don't put a lot of extra grease in the hub void. I put maybe a tablespoon of extra grease in there. Insure that the grease is well packed in to the bearing. I also put a thin film on to the race before I put the bearing back in. When tighting the nut I turn the tire/hub as I tighten the nut to insure bearings seat with plyers and friction is felt in turning. I then back off nut 1/2 turn and install cotter pin.

Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 122
5
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
5 Offline
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 122
So then is 20 lb ft of torque too much? That is what I put it at last night before running it for 10 miles or so....


Moderated by  Phak1, Woogeroo 

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