The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Krylon paint job

I have finished the body work and gotten all the replacement sheet metal for my 57. All of the truck is in primer. I neeed to be able to install the glass and drive the truck for about a year to sort out the drive line and suspension before I can justify a nice paint job. I am looking for your input on a krylon quicky paint job. I have heard the cure time is a lot longer. I can leave the truck inside my shop but it is not heated all the time. How will this effect the paint. I would also like to know when I do get ready to put a quality paint job on her if the krylon will be hard to remove or if it can be painted over.
Thanks for your input.
Ron

From my past experiences,, the painters will tell you, "ill paint the truck, no guarantees".
Theyre painting over your prep work,etc......
They dont know what youve done under there,,especially with the spray bombs.
Alot of them wont even touch it.
Good Luck,
Marty

If you're going to use rattle can paint go to a paint jobber and have them mix your color using auto refinish quality paint and put it in a rattle can for you. Most jobbers will do that. You then will have refinish quality paint rather than Krylon.

IF you are going to paint it in a year DO NOT use rattle can paint.You can buy primer that takes hardner and put that on it and just drive it primed It would look so much better than rattle can junk.

Marty, thanks for your input. I intend to completly diassemble the truck and remove the "spray bomb" paint job before I would even think about the kind of paint job this truck will end up with. I guess I should have put more detail in my original post. The inner/outter fenders, drivers door, roof and box are all new. The rest of the body work was done by using new patch panels. Primer is a epoxy type on the cab. The truck is a frame off restoration that has been 6 years in the making. I just cant wait any longer to be able to put some miles on the driveline.

Where most if not all epoxy primers are lacking in UV resistance, the most degradation you should see in running it in epoxy is a chalking of the primer. When you get ready to paint, the normal scuff, preclean, and prep that you would do anyhow should make it ready for paint. Unlike the krylon, where it all needs to come back off. Epoxy prime it, run it and do your shakedown, and paint it when you can.

Robert, thank you very much for your ideas on the paint. I have decided to go with Dupont Corlar epoxy primer in a satin black. I was unaware that a primer had this kind of protection. This will end up being the perfect answer to my needing the time to work over the driveline and finishing all the other work (A/C, wiring,ETC.) and then not having to remove the paint.
Thanks again
Ron

Ron, the highlighted part sounds like you missed this:




Epoxies typically DO NOT have uv protection, that comes into play with the top coats/clears. Just didn't want you to be mis-informed... But given what you're doing, and the fact you aren't in Arizona/Texas sun, the epoxy should more than hold up until you get ready for paint...

Robert, I caught the UV part of the post, my reference to protection was to the anti-rust and the overall durability of this product after reading the info page on the Dupont web site. I am sure that this will be the ticket for the short time I need to finish the other projects and give me a little fun drive time also.
Thanks
Ron