The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Electrical Bay probably a dumb ? -gauges

Is there any reason why an oil pressure and water temp gauge would need a resistor to be converted to 12v? They are just mechanical gauges right? I don't see any power going to them. Am I right or wrong. Voltmeter-resistor or not?

you are right, no resistors needed for those. even the amp gauge will work without a resistor. Gas will need one.

Thanks- I thought so. I find many times that this forum is soooo good that it's almost too easy just to ask the ? here. You normally get an answer right away. I have to stop myself sometimes and ask, do I really need to bother someone with this question!!! The info available from everyone definitely makes this "work" more enjoyable. I mean learning how to do all these different aspects of a rebuild is hard enough even with the answers!! Thanks again!!

You will need 12v bulbs for your gauges.

Good luck

10-4 on the bulbs. Already got em in there. Gas gauge resistor done and working. 12v gen-rebuilt. Rebuilt 6v starter but most everyone says that'll be OK as long as I don't run it too much-heat it up. So really I should be done with the gauges. Only potential problem I can see is the headlight switch is tempermental. When turning left to right It flickers and has a hard time hiting just the right spot. Looks like that might be normal though 'cuzz of the way it's designed. That connection between the shaft and that spring looking part has gotta be ancient technology!!!! Its clean though and not corroded sooo- I guess it is what it is!!!!

The instrument lights are flickering?

I just read that you need a resestor in line for the gas gage. I have a 1948 chev panel and is 12v. There is one wire from the ignition and the wire from the gas tank going to the gage. Thanks for your help again.

Yes u need a resistor in line for the gas guage if u are converting from 6v to 12v. My sending unit in the gAS tank was "blown" (wire on unit inside tank literally broke) probably due to running 12v w/out the resistor. The resistor will go between the ignition switch and guage. Do a search for correct resistor as it has been coverwed many times. Or I'm sure someone will chime in with right one. I'm just old and can't remember!!!!

Yes lights flicker when i mess with headlight knob in a left or right direction. Sometimes have to do this for dash lights to work. Is sw. going bad?

I had a problem one time with a flickering Headlight. It was due to a bad ground.

Your instrument lights ground when you snap them in the gauge housing, unless there is some fresh paint causing a bad ground I dont think that would be your problem.

I believe Denny Graham has rebuilt a headlight switch.
Maybe He or someone else will chime in with some helpful troubleshooting tips

Good Luck

The rheostat on the switch that controls the brightness of the dash lights is most likely dirty or corroded and just needs a little cleaning up.

Get some contact cleaner from Radio Shack or any electronics store, spray a little on the wire-wound rheostat that is on the front of the headlight switch body (closest to the dash) then "wipe" the switch back and forth several times. Repeat as necessary.

It may very well be the ground. It seems that it- the light switch- grounds with just the round retaining nut that holds it in the dash. Just a little loose could cause that. Thanks

Will also try that contact cleaner- never knew there was such a thing!!! Thanks