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| | | Forums66 Topics128,051 Posts1,055,729 Members48,426 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Oct 2011 Posts: 112 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2011 Posts: 112 | screw I dropped my carb yesterday and bent the mixture screw. See pic above. The carb is a Rochester Monojet 7029021 on a '69 C-10 with a L6 250. Anyone have a spare screw? | | | | | Joined: Oct 2011 Posts: 112 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2011 Posts: 112 | Or advice on how best to attempt to straighten the original? | | | | | Joined: Sep 2009 Posts: 433 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2009 Posts: 433 | Did the carb body suffer any damages ? I have seen The Carburetor Shop LLC listed here before... Carbking can help you out...
Last edited by healingbear; 12/16/2011 5:35 AM.
1954 Chevy 3104 3 Window Hydra-Matic in my family for over 60 Years
Once in a while you get shown the light in the strangest of places if you look at it right... "Scarlet Begonias" Grateful Dead 1974
| | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 Sir Searchalot | | Sir Searchalot Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 | It is probably brass. Fixing is a piece of cake. It's bent at the threads. Fix it like you would straighten a bent nail. HOWEVER! Lay it on aluminum and use aluminum on it and hit the aluminum on it, gently, with a smallish hammer. Do not hit it directly with the hammer or anything but aluminum or hardwood. It would be best if you had a another (third) piece of aluminum with the same threads in it so as to use as a test thread instead of the carburetor. The brass is harder, and the brass threads are harder, than the aluminum. Just tap tap tap instead of bang bang bang! Be sure NOT to damage the tip. It won't take much. Sometimes you may have to "over bend" slightly the other way so that when it "springs" back after hammer blow, it will be straight. Keep trying into test threads and stop when it will hand tighten all the way in. You can also rig up a vice with aluminum pieces to straighten it. Either way I would try to "rest" the tip end on the unthreaded portion and not bare against the tip or taper. BEFORE starting study very carefully where the bend actually is and tap directly over it.
Last edited by bartamos; 12/16/2011 6:17 AM.
Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 Sir Searchalot | | Sir Searchalot Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 | You can use two pieces of angle aluminum as jaws in your vice. Place/tighten the tip end of the screw into the vice, clamping on the unthreaded part of the screw near the tip, with the hex end sticking straight up. Place a small, strong pipe or tube down over it and lever it straight. Easy does it, don't jerk the pipe, just steady pressure. take it out and check after every little effort. Don't try to do it all at one time, you'll go too far and come back and it will snap off.
Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn | | | | | Joined: Oct 2011 Posts: 112 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2011 Posts: 112 | healingbear, I can find no damage other than the screw. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2011 Posts: 112 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2011 Posts: 112 | bartamos, i dropped it the day the rebuild was finished. thanks for the tips! | | |
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