The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Freeze plugs

I'm pretty sure I blew a freeze plug. Can these be changed with the engine in the truck or will I have to pull it? 1965 283V8. Also looking for a new water pump, whats the difference between long and short besides measurements.

thanks Brett

You can change the freeze plugs in the truck, but they can be a real pita depending on which one puked and how much crap is in the way. Which one is leaking? Make sure you thoroughly clean the block where the new plug will seal and it can be helpful to put a thin coating of rtv on the new plug. If the plug has rusted out and is leaking, the rest probably aren't far behind. If the location of the bad plug really prohibits driving in a new one, you can use a rubber expansion plug to get you by for awhile. Any hardware store should have them in a range of sizes.
The difference between the short and long pumps is the length. If you can get your fingers between the timing cover and water pump, you have a long one. If the water pump is almost touching the timing cover you have a short one. No 283 left the factory with a long one. Any local parts store should have both in stock.

It depends on how accessible the particular plug is. There are rubber expansion-type plugs available that simply push into the hole, and a center bolt is tightened to expand the rubber and seal the hole. That's the simplest way to do a quick fix. If one plug is rusted out, the others are probably pretty far gone, also. I like to install brass freeze plugs on a rebuild, which don't rust out.

The length of the water pump shaft determines how the belts fit to align with accessories like power steering, air conditioning, etc. Different pulleys and accessory options determine what length shaft you need.
Jerry

Thanks guys.South town it is the one on the passenger side under the exhaust manifold. I'm thinking of pulling the motor and doing all of them and a little paint. I'm not sure how many miles are on this thing OD says 89,000 but could be a 189?

maybe 289,000

If you are referring to the number of miles on the engine since the last rebuild (with the odometer showing unaltered mileage and the engine never having been rebuilt), would a 1965 engine go 189K with a rebuild?

I know nothing about mid-60s and later engines, but I doubt if a mid-50s and earlier engine have gone 189K or more without a rebuild.

ditto what Tim says, a 283 would have to be exceptionally well cared for to make 100,000 .... if it's an original [dry] California truck the body mileage might be 189,000, but they didn't make these things to last forever

Bill

So a rebuild is probably in order.I'm looking into the cost as we speak. It might be cheaper to buy a long block 350.

I wouldn't go rebuilding the engine if it doesn't need it. There's no reason a properly maintained engine from the 60's wouldn't go 100K plus without a rebuild. How's the oil pressure? Compression? How's it run? Smoke at all? If it has good oil pressure, doesn't smoke, and pulls strong, I'd leave it alone. It will end up being easier to pull the engine to deal with the freeze plug. You might as well just change them all. I'd install the brass ones, you'll never have to do it again.