| |
Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| | |
0 members (),
40
guests, and
10
robots. | | Key: Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,012 Posts1,055,315 Members48,419 | | Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks  Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
| | THANKS!
For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down
with Ads!  Again, thanks!
| | | | Joined: Oct 2011 Posts: 46 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Oct 2011 Posts: 46 | 235ci think 1955 ... is a 750lb stand ok for that? Thanks | | | | | Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 2,393 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 2,393 | Yes it is, but be careful if it's a three, floor point stand. A four,floor point stand is more stable. Be very careful when rotating the block because of its length. It can get away from you. You can also bolt a verticle steel leg to the front of the block to help support and stabilize it. Others here have used various methods and will likely chime in.
Drew
| | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 487 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2005 Posts: 487 | Marginal IMHO.
But then I subscribe to the theory that overkill is underrated.
HF currently has their 1-ton foldable stand on sale for $120.
Also keep in mind how tall the engine is.
if you set it up on the stand with the crank level with the stand pivot, it's going to want to flop over with the head down. Set it up as low on the stand as you can. There have been some discussions on here before about it.
regards,
Leon | | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 9,671 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 9,671 | This is one of HF 1,000 lb dead weight stands and I would conceder it ok to store a Stovebolt on but marginal if you’re going to rotate it much while working on it. http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/image/140034515 Denny Graham Sandwich, IL
Denny G
Sandwich, IL
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2008 Posts: 1,922 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2008 Posts: 1,922 | Is that front cross-bar open-ended?
Make something up that slides into the ends to increase the track width in front. Even 1 foot wider on each side helps.
Drill in from the top through both for a push-pin to lock it in place.
Yes, it will be awkward to step over/around, but not as much as that cast on your leg.
Cheaper temporary fix: make an open-ended weight box that spans the width and locks on to the cross-bars, fill it up with steel scrap. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | I think that Leon is referring to the 2-ton foldable engine stand on sale at Harbor freight? http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?keyword=engine+standI have that 2000 lb stand (non-foldable) and a 1000 lb stand - I gave away my 750 lb stand (all HF brand) . As would be expected, the 2000 stand is quite stable - I safely roll engines between garages and rotate engines without worry of tip-over. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 9,671 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 9,671 | Agree with that Tim, if I had a lot of work or needed to move it arouind a bunch
then I would definitly go with the wonton stand. The neck on the 1,000 pounder
in the picture flexes way to much for my comfort.
I got that one in the deal, it was hanging on the 235 when I picked it up, and as I
said, it's fine for holding it up off the ground in the corner of the shop but not
to sturdy.
DG
Last edited by Denny Graham; 12/01/2011 11:49 PM.
Denny G
Sandwich, IL
| | |
|
|
| |
