The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Guidance - swapping for a bigger engine

I'd like some guidance and suggestions on swapping my 216 for a new engine in my 52 Chevy suburban. I've seen on the site that swapping for a 235 looks like the swap with the least amount of trickle down changes.

The suburban will become the daily driver for the family when it is done and I want it to be reliable on Chicago highways. Will the 235 handle that? I'd like to go bigger on the engine but also want to keep the number of changes to the truck to a minimum for authenticity, cost and sanity. So, here's my question. At what point should I consider changing to IFS, disc brakes, and the other changes that may be driven by going to a larger engine? How large of an engine can I put in and not have to have a host of other changes driven by that one choice?

Getting anxious to stop planning (and budgeting) and start building!

Find a 261. Will give more power, but least amount of changes.

I would recommend a 261 and disc brakes, a booster of some kind with a dual circuit master cylinder, and a possibly power steering. If you do choose PS then a hydrobooster would be nice.
You may get some ideas from my pictures below.

I drove my 52 1 ton with 4 wheel disc brakes, PS, hydrobooster, 235, and 4.56 gears through Chicago once. That's the last time I will ever drive through Chicago in anything if I have a choice. At the time more power and faster gears would have been helpful, but avoiding Chicago all together is my plan.

Grigg

I'd suggest adding a B-17 top turret, complete with .50 BMG twin machine guns!
Jerry

Last time I drove something I owned through Chicago it had only 60 cubic inches. It did fine, but it only had two wheels and maybe 100 horsepower.

The 261 is probably the easiest swap and no different than going to the 235. The next step up would be to go GMC which adds modifying the front engine mount, and can give you 270 or 302 cubes stock.

Really though the 235 will do the job. More important is that it be reliable so you don't get stuck sitting on the freeway with traffic rushing past.

Most important is the brakes and steering. People driving modern cars with ABS brake systems have no idea how much room it takes to stop an old truck with drum brakes. If it were mine I'd worry about the brakes before the motor if it was going to carry my family.

Actually, my Suburban, a '55 1st GMC, has carried my family more than once. I updated the brakes five years ago and haven't done more than change the oil in the old motor.

Amen on a lot of that Old Sub! Just a couple of months ago I learned the almost hard way about the brakes. I have a C-10, probably much lighter than your Sub. I took it to Portland and back and came up over a hill at 75mph when low and behold, in front of me was stalled traffic. In any of my other vehicles, it wouldn't have been a problem. I hit the brakes and I was obviously not slowing down fast enough. I stepped on the pedal harder and the brakes locked up and put me sideways. I pumped the brakes, rode it out, and missed the retaining wall by an inch and the truck in front of me by less than a foot. My wife was with me me and we both just about had to clean our underwear.
I'm upgrading to a 261 in progress. Before the swap, I'm adding discs. I don't mind the manual steering and will keep that the same.
Last but not least, I believe that more important than the motor is the tranny you use and radial tires. A low geared rear like you have with an O.D tranny or a T-5 plus radials will blow your mind. By the time I had installed my O.D. and switched to radials, I had already bought my 261 block and started the build. I wouldn't have if I knew what a big difference just the O.D. and tires made. As far as suspension, I have a 62 w/ IFS and rear coils so I'm happy with that but I would definately want to upgrade if I had '52 suspension. Do your research, many, many options.
OK Just one more thing. Building an I6 is not cheap. You could add a crate 350 and even with all the chassis mods, would still spend less than properly building an inline 6 that will swap right in. That being said, I would still go for a 6, but it's your wallet.

while you're at the brakes do this mod
http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/draglink_adjustable.html
then the master cyl
T-5
once you decide on the rear end also consider those brakes. the mid 70's 1/2T chevy 6 lug rears have 2.75'' wide drums, as do many other good choices.
http://www.stovebolt.com/bboard/cgi-bin//ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=2;t=013343;p=1#000002
this will take you some time
make good decisions
good luck and welcome to the world of olde trucks