The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Rebuilding a Carburetor for 216

Can anyone give advice on rebuilding a carburetor for the 216 (1 barrel)? Is there an easy book like carbs for dummies? Is it hard to do?

thanks

There is a book that covers this. It's called the shop manual. Hahahaha.


They aren't too complicated. Just follow along in the book, and if you are nervous, take a million digital pictures so you can see how it goes back together.

If it is a Roch. model B it is real simple. If it is a Carter its a little harder but doable. Your shop manuals have instructions on it.

Here's one for the Rochester...

LINK

I used that link from Bang Shift on my first Rochester rebuild but I used this one http://www.classictrucks.com/tech/0802ct_rochester_carburetor_rebuild/viewall.html
on the second Rochester. Both links were very helpful.

I also got my kits and one .051 jet from Mike's Carburetors:
http://www.carburetor-parts.com/

There are good diagrams in the kits and these are real easy to do. Trust me, if "I" can do it then anyone can.

The suggestion by Mr. Lang to take lots of pictures of "YOUR" carb as you rebuilt it is GOOD SOUND ADVICE !

When you turn a part over watch out for the little ball bearings. Especially the one under the power valve they can be mind twisters.

You can do it - - Good Luck !

Two good sources for me were:

MIke's Carburetor has a series of three videos posted on YouTube at

The carburetor manual can be found at http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/booklets/5020mts00.htm

Rebuilding mine was a pretty simple job (though my carb was in pretty good shape).

Hope this helps,

Thanks everyone for your advice once I put my truck to sleep for its winter hibernation (I live in northern Wisconsin) I am going to try to rebuild that carb. And especially now that I have the manual.

I'm currently rebuilding my Rochester B and the only problem I've found is the power piston is frozen solid. It will NOT budge! I've sprayed lots of PB, WD and carb cleaner on it and nothing! Anyone have any suggestions? Is this part important? Please help!

The power piston responds to vacuum. The brass no doubt has an issue with the carb body alloy. The WD / PB may need some help from a heat gun and or a 1500 watt hair dryer. A gun cleaning brush for 22 / 32 cal will clean out the bore. Brass-O will polish and clean the piston. Go easy tapping the piston with a plastic screw driver. The brass will come back, the bore may have some oxidizeing wear. Good luck

The proper function is very important.

Success! Thanks for the great advice. I used my wife's hair dryer to put some heat on the "power piston" and it worked. Never thought such a small part could be so frustrating. Does the piston need any grease on it before re-installing it?

no grease. maybe a bit of light weight oil or silicon spray.

Roll on a cloth with 'Brass-O'. Polish it and install it with a light oil. With the spring installed, the power piston should move up and down with no drag. Make sure it continues to move freely after the support is installed. The body of the carb has a raised detent that positions the support, after the screw is torqued, check the movement of the P P again.

Does anyone recommend putting some gasket sealant on the gasket that mates the top half and bottom half together? I've heard that this can be a common leak spot for these old carbs. I haven't run my carb yet, but just finished the rebuild and was wondering if anyone has done this?

With no disrespect meant to anyone:

NO OIL

NO SEALANT

The oil over time will become hard causing the piston to stick.

The Brasso might be OK, have never tested it.

You can polish the piston using a 1500 grit wet or dry crocus cloth.

As for the sealant, if the surfaces are flat, no sealant is necessary. If the surfaces are not flat, use heat and pressure to straighten them (and then they will be flat and not leak).

Sealant will be broken down by the association with fuel, and will flow to the smallest part of the carburetor through which fuel flows (the idle tubes) and will clog them making a MUCH more difficult rebuild in a few weeks.

Jon.

Thanks for the tip! I'll stay away from the sealant.

Carb is now rebuilt and back on. I've hooked up a temp gas tank and ran fuel to the carb. Now I'm noticing that gas is leaking around the main inlet line going into the carb. I have a 5/16 rubber hose clamped onto a barbed hose fitting. Should I get a brass line with fittings?

You will need the proper flare fitting to seal at the carb. A short piece of steel fuel line with fuel hose clamped to the open end should stay tight for testing. I have an in-line fuel filter just ahead of the carb installed with clamps on rubber hose. No problems.