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| | | | Joined: Jan 2009 Posts: 101 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jan 2009 Posts: 101 | Guys, I would like to install the carb spacer under my carb but the threaded studs from the manifold are too short. I ordered new ones that were supposed to be longer, but they seem to be the same length. Anyone know the correct length in order to use the spacer? Also, what is a good source? What is the way to remove the old ones?
Disciple
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2003 Posts: 200 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2003 Posts: 200 | Ted,
Are you sure you have the correct spacer? I have a 51 216 with the Roch B. when the insulator (spacer) and the carb are installed there is not a whole lot of room for the hold down nuts for the carb. When I was doing my truck, and came across something like this, I had to ask myself which would be easier to change by a previous owner, the studs or the insulator. If the studs look like they have been there a long time, I would check that your insulator is correct.
Hope this helps. Let us know what you find.
Mark
1951 Chevy 3100
Some days you get the bear. Some days the bear gets you.
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | Ted, NAPA and other auto parts stores should have studs that will work. You should be able to measure what you need (length of threaded bottom and threaded top plus the thickness of the spacer/insulator. (as posted above by Ted) Add a little for a lock washer - to not get them too long because on some carbs you do not have much space above the post (to allow the placement of the nut). A vise grip or a stud extractor should remove the old bolt - be careful they break. Soak with a penetrating oil and heat and cool the bolt bottom a few times. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2010 Posts: 1,232 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2010 Posts: 1,232 | Hi Ted - I asked the same question in April in this thread. I have forgotten where I bought my studs - probably NAPA like Tim suggested. Mine weren't frozen in, so it was an easy replacement. Here are some of the replies that answer your questions: The studs are simple screw-in items, but several decades of being threaded into the manifold might make them a little hard to remove. I'd suggest threading two 3/8-24 nuts onto the stud, and jamming them tight together, then using the lower nut to try to back the stud out of the manifold. If it's stubborn, apply penetrating oil, and heat if necessary. Vise grips or a small pipe wrench are a last-resort method. Just don't twist one off trying to get it out. The stud will have a 3/8-16 thread into the manifold, and 3/8-24 threads at the carburetor flange. They're standard hardware items, but you might need to find an industrial supplier like Grainger or MSC, etc. to find a good assortment of lengths to fit your needs.
Jerry For no more torque than they'll get holding the carb on, Grade 5 will be OK. Grade 8 would be a bit of overkill, I believe! Anti-sieze is always a good idea!
Jerry You can go to a FLAPS and get the studs they use them for exhaust pipe to manifold apps.
Pete
- Lonnie My '54 3104Photos that I have shared on Stovebolt via PhotoBucket are no longer available. Please contact me if you want a photo from an old post. lonniecook [at] aol [dot] com. I sold my '54 3104 12/12/2017, but I still visit Stovebolt. OLD STUFF ... houses, furniture, cars, wine ... I love it all | | | | | Joined: Jan 2009 Posts: 101 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jan 2009 Posts: 101 | 51 Bolt, Insulator is correct. I have owned the truck for almost six years. It has always not had a spacer. I have measured the current studs, and they are too short.
Last edited by Ted W; 11/16/2011 1:40 AM.
Disciple
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2009 Posts: 101 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jan 2009 Posts: 101 | Lonnie C, I tried penetrating oil, and jamming two nuts on a extra manifold with the same size studs. Tapped the studs with a hammer, and viola, the studs came out. Amazingly enough these studs are also short.I'll check out my FLAPS tomorrow.
Disciple
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2009 Posts: 101 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jan 2009 Posts: 101 | TCLederman, I'll be making some exact measurements. Thanks for the advice.
Disciple
| | | | | Joined: Apr 2010 Posts: 283 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2010 Posts: 283 | A parts house that has access to the Dorman line of products will have a good selection of studs.
Both Caterpillar and John Deere have hardware catalogs with a wide range of high quality fasteners.
McMaster Carr supply has catalog online with many hardware and fastener and supplies-a toll free number for ordering and quick delivery to your door.
Many studs like these have an oversize thread on the end that screws into the casting so it will be retained but a looser thread on the other end to allow easy running of the nut.
But not critical, and many a peice of all-thread rod has been fit and used with good results--it's just nice if the stud stays in the casting and the nut comes off.
Bob Taylor
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