The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Oil and coolant questions.

Okay I have a 46 2ton with a 216 1952/53 can't remember. First the coolant:

I pulled the block drain after I had removed the drain below the radiator and very little trickled out of the block hole, even when I added some fluid to the radiator with the radiator drain plugged nothing came out (engine off).

Would this indicate the water pumps bad and not pumping the coolant to the back of the block?

Would the fluid find its way to the block with the engine off?

The pumps also leaking a little coolant. I was told that's a sign that in newer vehicles the pump needs replaced is it true in theses also?

Now the oil:

how do I tell if the Oil is moving properly in the engine?

Oil should squirt into the valve cover on the top of the engine correct?

Could I crank the engine with the cover off to see if the oil is squirting? Or would this just make a horrible mess?

I have a oil filter but I don't know if oil is going through it properly either is there a way to test it?

How would I know if my 216 was converted to a pressurized system?

I tried finding these answers online and had a horrible time

Thank you,
Akguy34

More times than not IF you get any coolant out of the drain you are lucky. Try pulling the petcock completely out then run a piece of clothes hanger into the hole to break up the crud that's blocking it. You don't need the engine running to drain the block.

Yes a leaking water pump indicates the need for replacement.

The oil will not squirt into the valve cover. On a low pressure 216 the feed line is quite small. Eventually the rocker shafts will get full and you'll have some overflow but I've never seen one do what I'd call squirt.

If you have a bypass filter just start the engine without the element in the housing and watch to see if oil enters the side fitting and exits the bottom. If it does you're gold. The feed line will connect at the pressure gauge fitting and the drain line will connect at the distributor valve (on my '38 216 anyway, don't know if a '53 still has that or just a port in the block).

I don't know how you'd tell if it's been drilled for pressure from the outside, I've never done one.

there are a few ways to get full pressure, but usually you can't tell unless you actually look and see if the crank has been drilled or not. I got mine drilled and unless you knew it, you wouldn't be able to see it. I have altered a bunch of stuff to get a full flow filter as well, but even at that there is nothing to conclusively define it as a full pressure system. Your most likely is not, although it isn't that hard, once you get the crank drilled, which by the way crower cams in san diego is the only place I could find willing to do it, if you go that route talk to peter harris, but make sure you have them line the holes up to match the grooves in the bearing, (the rear main isn't in the center, as well as one other, I can't recall which one right off hand)

I do the 216 and old 235 rebuilding frequently and I'm located west of Sacramento. I use an Engine facility in Roseville to drill the cranks. It is a CNC setup and they have drilled seven for me to date with no trouble. I replace the stock 216/235 oil pump and pick up tube with one from a '53 (Non-Power Glide) Chevy six. It is a 30 Lb. pump and does the job very well without any big investment for parts. I also use Clevite bearings and never any coolant that isn't Green in the base color. Stay away from the Red stuff.
Normbc9

What seems to be the problem with the "red stuff" Norm??
I just refilled my rebuilt 216 system with ShellZone Dex-Cool 5 year/150,000 mile coolant:
http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/image/139680976
Don't see why it wouldn't do the job and do it better than the old stuff.

Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

Here are a few links on the subject:

http://205.243.146.146/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1246384&page=1

http://www.camaroz28.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-540883.html

http://www.topclassactions.com/close/14-gm-dexcool-engine-coolant

http://www.grandprixforums.net/dexcool-damage-pics-52640.html