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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: May 2010 Posts: 66 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: May 2010 Posts: 66 | I've eliminated the point/condenser in my '59 Apache and installed a Ignitor Electronic Ignition w/ a 40k coil and need to figure out if i have a "resistor"....? How do i test for this? I recently had the engine rebuilt (261 w/ 235 head w/ a mild cam) and wanted to update ignition. I have a green wire coming out of the harness running down to the starter and don't know if this goes to pos+ or neg- side..? Once i have this figured out i should be able to get timing set and running...w/ a little help, i hope!! thanks for any info.
Last edited by tobin1959; 11/06/2011 8:59 PM.
| | | | | Joined: Jul 2001 Posts: 3,887 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Jul 2001 Posts: 3,887 | on a 59, an ignition resistor would be a ceramic dohicky on the firewall, wires from it go inside and connect to the ignition switch - if it's there you can just eliminate it and join the wires from each end of it together .... no green wire on the starter originally, that would be the ignition resistor wire to the coil +
Bill | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | What brand and model coil do you have? If it is a low-ohm coil (such as the 1.5 ohm Flamethrower - not the 3.0 ohm Flamethrower), you most likely will not need an ignition resistor.
Where are the locations of both sides of the green wire (at the starter and at the coil)? If so, it would be a lead that would by-pass the ballast resistor - if you need a ballast resistor, contact Pertronix about using the green by-pass lead from the starter (I would guess that you would not use this).
| | | | | Joined: May 2010 Posts: 66 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: May 2010 Posts: 66 | thanks Bill, indeed the green wire goes to the coil and i do have a resistor(ceramic dohickey on the firewall) +pos side of coil...i'm greatful for the information. | | | | | Joined: May 2010 Posts: 66 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: May 2010 Posts: 66 | Tim; i hopefully have the correct equipment...a 1.5 Ohm coil (40k) and the recommended ignitor for a 12-volt neg ground. With the mild cam i did increase plug gap which i'm hoping will make her run great w/ no more point/condenser issues. Thanks for the helpful info.
Last edited by tobin1959; 11/06/2011 12:56 PM.
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | tobin1959,
What you have is what I have using for over 12 years on a 12v 261 in a 1954 truck.
I think you will be OK without the ballast resistor (you might want to still contact Pertronix technical support).
Also, good grounding of the engine/distributor is very important. I intend to run a ground wire from a clip-screw on my distributor to a nut that holds the coil to the head (I know my engine grounds to the frame/battery are very good).
| | | | | Joined: May 2010 Posts: 66 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: May 2010 Posts: 66 | good call Tim...i will contact Pertronix....i'd like to keep everything origional as possible. I'll check all grounds as i have painted everything under the hood....thanks a million guys, i'm glad i have an outlet for information!!
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