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| | | Forums66 Topics128,043 Posts1,055,605 Members48,426 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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For helping keep this great
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Oct 2010 Posts: 6 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Oct 2010 Posts: 6 | Whats the easiest way to replace the front right spring on my 52' 1/2 ton chevy? With limited tools. The spring broke at the fixed end. Do i need to undo the shock or can that be left alone? Whats the procedure to replace the bushing at that fixed bolt? Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | I think you would have tube-type shocks? If so, you should be able to unbolt the spring pack and leave the shock connected to the mounting plate that goes under the spring-pack. Here is a Tech Tip on removing the spring/suspension-chassis bushing: http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/bushingpuller.htm | | | | | Joined: Aug 2011 Posts: 835 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2011 Posts: 835 | Main thing is you need to jack the body of the truck to relieve the pressure from the support point of the spring. This will make it easy to remove the shackle and the pivot bolt. If your spring is broken at the support/pivot - not so much of a problem but you still need to jack the body. Here is a post about my experience replacing spings on my '51 1/T. I have a picture of how I jacked the body in this post. Replacing springs Note: I really think you should consider replacing ALL your springs given the fact one has broken. Certainly you should replace the one on the other side. Otherwise your steering will be very wonky. You can make a puller/installer from pipe parts and threaded rod for the bushings in the frame attachment points. Kurt | | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 9,671 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 9,671 | Don't know if you have a gas shock or not Mike, but I'd drop the shock before taking the U-bolts loose. I set the frame on stands right behind the rear spring mount at the cross member. With a jack under the axle you can take any tension off the spring and then just pull the front shackle and at the rear its just a thru bolt, any bushings on the front will be in the spring eye and a new spring should already have them pressed in to the eye. The original rear bolt is probably worn so it should be replaced. The vendors sell repops for the bolt, shackles and springs. As Kurt mentioned, it would be a good investment at this time to replace both springs as a pair other wise you may end up with cockeye handling problems. DG
Last edited by Denny Graham; 10/26/2011 1:32 AM.
Denny G Sandwich, IL
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2010 Posts: 6 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Oct 2010 Posts: 6 | Thanks so much for all the tips and knowledge. I bought a used spring, but may do as suggested and replace both (or all) with new after reading what difference new springs did for you guys. Pictures were a great, Kurt. Hope to meet up with you, Denny, since you are so close to me. Again, thanks everybody!! | | | | | Joined: Oct 2010 Posts: 6 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Oct 2010 Posts: 6 | Also, I will do what you did, Tim. Thanks for the info to make the bushing puller. | | | | | Joined: Jul 2007 Posts: 328 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2007 Posts: 328 | Mike
I'm just south of you in Kaneville area ...
Just holler if you need something' ..... just finishing up my 51 Panel.
Mike
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2010 Posts: 6 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Oct 2010 Posts: 6 | Great to have another cohort nearby. I'd like to see that panel! | | |
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