The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The HiPo Shop Moving firewall back 8 in WITHOUT stretching frame

I am planning on starting work on a 1955 Chevy 6400 2nd series truck at the beginning of next year. I am wanting to buy a donor truck and install a 1994-1997 Dodge in-line six Cummins diesel to replace the inline 6 261 that is in it now. I have made the measurements, and to make it fit, I would need to move the center of the firewall back 6-8 inches WITHOUT replacing or stretching the frame. Can I get some help here of any kind?

I need to move the center part of this back 6-8 in.

Exterior pic

1955;

Have you tried the 4BTSwaps.com site? They have a forum dedicated to 6BT/5.9 Cummins conversions. Those folks have been there, done that. I think there are some Stovebolt members there too. Good luck

http://www.4btswaps.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?14-Cummins-6BT-5.9-Conversions

SimS

Try "directsheetmetal.com"
Looks like they can pretty well customize to suit.

I was talking back and forth with a friend on this topic, and my friend said that at a gas station and saw someone in a 1950's 2-ton Chevy truck, and they installed a 1990's 454 Chevy gasoline engine which was a bit of a squeeze, but not much. My friend said the people at the station got the front fenders of a 1-ton of the fifty's in the same color and they lined well, but they were closer to the sides of the tires, which made that 454 fit in there MUCH better and with less of a squeeze. Has anyone ever tried this or heard of this? I would need to get fenders closer to the sidewalls of my tires to make this engine fit, and I made the measurements. To get the engine to fit by narrowing down the fenders, it would NOT hit the sides of the tires. Should I try to replace the fenders with skinnier ones, or just fabricate the original ones that came on the truck? I'm stumped

Thanks for that cummins forum! I became a registered member about 2 minutes ago! My online name on there is 1955_Chevy_6400. Alot like the 'bolt, because it has a wealth of knowledge! Will stay updated on the stovebolt though!

Perhaps you can pick up a few inches by relocating the radiator forward. I woud think losing 8 inches in an already small cab would be undesireable.

To do that, I would have to grind off the part of the grill bar facing the engine compartment which would make it skinnier. Should I do this, or try to scoot forward the grill and then grind some of it off? Here is a pic of the front. As you can see, the grill is pressed back into the engine compartment and it would let me scoot it forward about 3-5 in. WITHOUT it going infront of the fenders. Does this seem like a good way to go?

I saw a guy move his firewall back quite a ways by cutting the firewall and welding in a wheelbarrow! He said it used to be done quite a bit, they are readily available, they are smooth looking front and back. . .I thought it was a good idea. Ditto on moving the radiator though - you need all the room you can get inside!

Craig

That's a new one! Anyone else?

If you get the latest, November Custom Classic Truck magazine there is a picture of the wheel barrow fire wall. i read about it, was amazed. looked good.

Thanks! I will try and get one! Anyone else have tips or advice?

If I was to relocate the radiator, where would I relocate it to? I know you said to do it more forward, but I only have so much room. I can not remember where i heard this, but I heard you could relocate the radiator to another part of the truck. Sounds strange to me. Anyone ever heard of this?

Moving the radiator to a rear location brings a whole new list of issues.
Again, cart in front of the horse.
Get out some paper and make a plan, budget.
Then see whats in order.
Good Luck, Don

That is why I did not pay much attention to moving the radiator to another part of the truck because it sounded like a good way to cause more issues. I was already going on an expense report and am still researching for prices and advice.

To move the radiator, you put it in front of the radiator support. It's kind of tricky to get the bolts through to the right captured nuts and some people just drill new holes. Now comes the part that hurts: you have to cut the sloped piece to gain access to the radiator cap. I've seen hack jobs and I've seen some that look really good. Go into it with a plan, I guess.

Craig