The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Panels 'N Burbs 66 burb 5 lug conversion

Any suggestions on doin a 5 lug conversion on a 66 suburban with out spending a fortune

1973-8? 1/2 ton spindles if I remember right you just use the later 8? ball joint (not sure of upper or lower) that will give you 5 bolt front disc.

@66burban, Sorry for the delay in getting back to you but I have just started reading the "Panels 'N Burbs" forum again. You have an easy one! Since there are NO 5 lug front drums, you get discs in the process! My preferred way is to pick up a '73 - '88 front cross member complete! It bolts on and later you won't have to go crazy remembering what you did. You have to drill 2 holes that are not in the early frame and use grade 8 bolts.If you don't have it, now is the time to add power steering, too. You will have to "dimple' the frame behind the steering box for the later box. ALSO, whether you go to power brakes or not, you MUST change the master cylinder to one for disc brakes and use the bias valve that comes from the disc brake truck! The bias valve is hiding in the front cross member on the donor. The old "donor" truck is your friend! Another way to do it is outer tie rod ends, lower "A" arms & ball joints, and of course the brakes themselves along with their spindles. Donor truck or expensive kit, whichever! This leaves you with a collection of different year parts in your front end that I don't like. However you go, replace the rubber lines and calipers, as well as any metal brake lines that need it! It is really easier than it sounds!

best wishes,

Les

In lieu of dimpling the frame, to make way for the GM Saginaw power steering gear box, another solution is the power steering gear box mounting kits. The frame is already prone to cracking, in this area, due to a number of factory holes, in addition to the two new holes, required for the power steering gear box.

Out of curiosity, why are you converting your '66 Chevy Suburban to five lug? The wheel choices on the factory 6 on 5.5 lug pattern, are virtually limitless.

I used 71-72 C10 spindles/ball joints, and a 71-2 C10 rear end. Bought tie rod adapters from CPP to mate the OE linkage to the new spindles. Used a 71-2 master cylinder, made my own lines.

Roadmarks

Are you talking about a '73-'88 crossmenber from a pickup?
I have a 2003 GMC 1/2 ton and it still has 6-lugs.

Did they go back to 6-lugs or what?

'71-'98 1/2 ton 2wd uses a 5x5 bolt pattern, 4x4s stayed 6 lug. They went back to the 6 lug pattern on 2wds with the GMT800 body change in '99. The '88 and later wheels will not work on the earlier trucks without a spacer, the backspace is different.
Side note, the cutoff for the crossmember swap is '87 for pickups, '91 if you use one from a Suburban or R35 1 ton Chassis-Cab or Crew cab. The '88 chassis (GMT400) uses a welded in crossmember, with the upper control arm mounts welded to the top of the framerail (sides on 4x4) that are not part of the crossmember.

LONGBOX55 is right on the money as usual! I meant "'73 TO '88!"

LONGBOX55 is right on the money as usual! I meant "'73 TO '88!"

What should I expect to pay for a front axle assembly?

If I understand correctly. The front cross member will unbolt off the 73-88 pick up or Suburban as a whole assembly???

How much of the linkage? Where is the connection from OEM to donor assembly made?

Does it matter Chevy or GMC as donor vehicle?

Mine is a 1966 GMC Suburban.