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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,078 Posts1,056,027 Members48,433 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Oct 2008 Posts: 121 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2008 Posts: 121 | I installed a new factory style harness from Classic in my 55 2nd with an alternator. I have no head lights, tail lights, park lights or brake lights. Suspected the switch so took it out and apart twice but appears good. Filed the breaker points and cleaned the internal contact points. Fuse is blown on the resistor for dash lights but should not effect the rest according to the schematic. Read somewhere that a bad dimmer would affect the head lights but does not explain the rest of the lights. signal lights work and all the bulbs appear serviceable. This is my second rewire on one of these trucks and no issues with the first. Any thoughts?
Last edited by hb32; 10/03/2011 1:09 AM.
1955 Chevy 3100
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2008 Posts: 121 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2008 Posts: 121 | Horn is also not working but does work when connected directly to battery. No clicking noise at relay. Checked amp meter connections and swapped in a different one, still no joy. Have bat voltage on both terminals of amp meter. Truck will start. Trying to figure out what is common to all in circuit.
1955 Chevy 3100
| | | | | Joined: Jul 2001 Posts: 3,887 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Jul 2001 Posts: 3,887 | did you specifically get an alternator harness? the light switch [factory, w/ gen] gets power directly from the regulator, so there should be some alternate source that connects to the light sw BAT terminal, heavy red wire - another red wire should go from that terminal to the fuse panel, if you have one .... won't have any thing to do with the horn
Bill | | | | | Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 6,100 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 6,100 | Hy hb32, according to my 57 manual schematic, the power for the headlight switch, and the voltage regulator should come from a wire on the ammeter, this one wire is split into three different gauges at a connection in the harness. The ammeter should have three wires on the back of it, two red ones and one black one, hope that helps. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2008 Posts: 121 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2008 Posts: 121 | I think I have it figured out and will check in the am. In the factory schematic it shows a 14 ga wire running directly from the ignition switch bat terminal to the light switch bat terminal. This was pointed out to me on another forum. For some reason the harness does not have it or I have not identified it as such. On the horn it may be a error on my behalf as the wire from the harness may not be connected with the column. Yes it is a specific harness for an alternator which takes the fire wall external mounted regulator out of the circuit. No fuse panel but on that topic, where would the deluxe heater fan wiring connect for pwr squeeze? The 55 manual shows only the 2 wires on the amp meter so 56-9 may have done something differently. On another topic 3B, do you happen to remember the p/n for a temp sender unit? I swapped to electrical due to the mechanical lead is cut.
Last edited by hb32; 10/03/2011 9:43 AM.
1955 Chevy 3100
| | | | | Joined: Jul 2001 Posts: 3,887 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Jul 2001 Posts: 3,887 | elec temp sender = NAPA TS6469 .... the fuse panel was installed if there was any factory installed accessories, without it, a wire with an inline fuse [9amp] could be run from a switched ignition sw terminal, or unswitched from that light sw terminal Bill | | | | | Joined: Oct 2008 Posts: 121 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2008 Posts: 121 | Hy hb32, according to my 57 manual schematic, the power for the headlight switch, and the voltage regulator should come from a wire on the ammeter, this one wire is split into three different gauges at a connection in the harness. The ammeter should have three wires on the back of it, two red ones and one black one, hope that helps. Once again 3B you were right and thanks. Now I just need to get a new switch as mine broke on the last removal.
1955 Chevy 3100
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