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Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks  Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
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| | | | Joined: Mar 2007 Posts: 24 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Mar 2007 Posts: 24 | I'm installing the font windshield in my 57 Chevy truck and would like to know if use of some sort of sealant is recommended or just install it dry. Thx!
Two 1957 Chevy Step Sides
1988 Fiero Formula
1987 Fiero GT
1984 Fiero Indy
... yes I like Fieros also..
;-)
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2008 Posts: 3,750 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2008 Posts: 3,750 | I assume you're using a new seal?
Normally with a new seal you shouldn't really need sealer.
It wouldn't hurt to use a small amount applied where the rubber meets the bodywork though,prevention is better than cure after all....
A thin bead is all that's required and any excess(ooze) can be cleaned off with paintshop panel wipe.
In my work I use a product called Arbomast,it's a non setting,non aggressive sealer(it doesn't hurt your paint) or cause any problems should you need to do any paintwork later on.
Unlike some silicone based products.
I'm not sure if it's available in the U.S. but i'm sure you could find an equivalent.
Try asking in a local auto glass shop,they might be able to recommend something similar.
I hope this helps.
Good luck.
1950 Chevy Advance Design 3100 in ScotlandIn the Stovebolt GalleryMore pix on Flickr. I've definately got this truck thing in my blood ... my DNA sequence has torque settings"Of all the small nations of this earth,perhaps only the ancient Greeks surpass the Scots in their contribution to mankind" Winston Churchill.
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2008 Posts: 1,388 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2008 Posts: 1,388 | If you drive in the rain, you'll want some kind of sealant. Ask your local glass shop. A urethane will seal well, but be awful to remove (if you ever want to). A butyl type sealant will work well, and always come off with paint thinner.
That's my two cents. I'm about to do the windshield in my panel, and will use butyl, as someday in the next year or so, it will come back out when I can afford the fancy trim! | | | | | Joined: Mar 2008 Posts: 3,750 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2008 Posts: 3,750 | Just an additional 2 cents to add to Mr Langs comments.
A butyl based sealer's ideal and certain types of urethane are OK too.
I use a primerless urethane system in my work and it does sticks like 'you know what' to a blanket,so clean up at a later date might be a problem.
Although you wouldn't have the same reaction problems as you would with silicone.
A urethane sealer that uses a primer base if used without the primer can usually be peeled off a gloss paint finish once it has dried fully.
The primer is intended for bonded glass applications where grip is as important as water tightness.
You would just need to make sure which one you used.
1950 Chevy Advance Design 3100 in ScotlandIn the Stovebolt GalleryMore pix on Flickr. I've definately got this truck thing in my blood ... my DNA sequence has torque settings"Of all the small nations of this earth,perhaps only the ancient Greeks surpass the Scots in their contribution to mankind" Winston Churchill.
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 1,847 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 1,847 | when I worked at kenworth they used urethane by the 55 gal drum | | |
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