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#78216 05/31/2007 1:56 PM
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 26
M
Junior Member
Junior Member
M Offline
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 26
Hi guys,

It's been a while since I have visited. I rebuilt just about everything on my '46 including the 216 about a year ago and I thought that I would be trouble free for life. Fat chance.

Yesterday, I was moving stuff from my classroom and the engine sputtered to a stop. Earlier in the day I smelled a bit of ozone smell like there was an electrical issue, but there were no symptoms until the truck lost power and stopped working hours later.

It appears that there is no spark to the plugs or from the coil. When I turn the key the gauges do not spark to life either. When we put a wire from a good hot to the positive side of hte coil the gauges do spring to life. But the old boy still won't start. There is simply no spark.

Ideas? Coil went bad, capacitor went gafloey? What should I do to diagnose and fix?

Thanks!

Michael and
Buddy (my '46)

Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 8,597
W
Riding in the Passing Lane
Riding in the Passing Lane
W Offline
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 8,597
Sounds like the ignition switch went bad. Turn on the switch & put a test light on the pos. side of the coil. It should be hot. If it is pull the dist. cap & open & close the points with a screwdriver. You should get a spark at the points & a spark out of the coil at the same time. If not the points ,cond, or coil may be bad.


They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing.
1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne Super
In the Gallery Forum
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 23
R
Apprentice
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R Offline
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 23
This may sound elementary, but what shape is your battery in ?


Ray K.
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 5,708
A
'Bolter
'Bolter
A Offline
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 5,708
Michael,

I have enclosed a link to a wiring diagram of a '46. They are simple to say the least. As Wrenchbender indicates, some probing with a volt tester will help immensely. The original truck had a polarity reversing switch...did you dump this when you rebuilt everything. When you power the key side of the coil and all the gauges light up, that must mean 'the gauge' as in fuel gauge.

That is the only gauge the schematic shows on the same side of the switch with the coil. If the ammeter burned through inside, none of your lights will work...do they work!

Loosing power on the line side of the ignition switch certainly will kill any power to the coil...if you jumpered around this with a wire from the battery, the truck should have ignition and should start. Either two things happened at once or something is rotten in Austin. :confused:

http://chevy.tocmp.com/chevywiring/diagrams/1946truckwiring.pdf


Stuart


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