To bring this back up, If anyone wants a Brake Quip flaring tool speak up and I'll add you to the order, looking for one or two more to get the good discount, a better price than I could find online anywhere. PM for details
I've had mine for a while now and got one for a friend too, he's also quite pleased, hasn't seen anything better. I must say it's the very best flare tool I've ever used... and I've had over a half dozen different ones and used even more. Every flare I've done to date with the Brake Quip tool comes out perfect, so far I've used every size from 3/16" up to 1/2" all at 45*.
"Ray, I partly understand your desire to do a lot with next to nothing. I often find myself in the same situation and just do what you need to to get the job done well.
What I'm not so clear on is are you discouraging the use of good tools just to make the job harder on yourself, just for the "challenge" it presents?"
Wait a second Grigg. I'm not a total troglodyte. When I need to light a fire I don't rub 2 sticks together, I strike a match.
With regard to double flaring tools, I'm strictly a hobby mechanic and I've probably double flared less than 50 tubing ends in my entire 66 year life. For that level of use, making only 45* double flares and no other kind, my palm of the hand tool really does get the job done. I last used it years ago when I made the transmission cooler hard lines for my '32 Ford roadster street rod.
If I were a professional mechanic I would undoubtedly favor the same tool you do.
This thread matches the current one on the Drill Doctor drill bit repointing tool. On that thread I've tried to describe the freehand drill bit repointing method that I was taught in evening adult education machine shop. You might want to check it out.
Obviously, it's a lot easier to demonstrate a technique like that than to describe it in words, but I tried.
My bench grinder is right next to my drill press. So, a drill bit that isn't cutting well can be removed from the chuck and made sharp in less time than it takes to talk about it. I will admit that bits under 3/32" I don't see so well any more and I check them with a magnifying glass after I repoint them.
I'll be placing an order for Brake Quip flaring tool kits first thing Monday, if anyone else wants to be part of this group buy send me a PM for details, and the more the better the price for everyone is.
Sorry to be late to join this thread but I have just noticed it. Have you already put in an order? I might be interested if prices are good and there is time to join the group.
This is a really nice tool. Got mine yesterday. Had to make a test right away - perfect flare. I have to work the honey-do list a bit then the truck and Morgan get new lines. Thanks for putting this together Grigg.
I haven't seen it mentioned, but I got mine from Sears for a decent price new. I take my time and follow the directions. So far I have had good luck with my flares. I won't accept anything less than 100% perfect when it comes to brakes, 'cause it's me, (or my wife,) in the drivers seat!
Just used my Mastercool set on my neighbour's 99 Silverado..he had about an hour into trying to flare a 1/4 line under the truck. His hands were pretty ripped up from hhe old skool set and stuff around the line. Things are pretty rusty under there.
He was pretty amazed by the Mastercool set..we did the flare in a tight area in 5 minutes. It was slick and saved him much grief.
Got treated to a couple of mugs of the Captain in return. Nice.
I read through this older thread and it helped me make a GREAT decision. I just purchased an Eastwood Brake Flaring Tool. Got it from Eastwood but they sell it on eBay for a cheaper price than you can buy it directly from their website. Shipping was free!
This tool is worth every penny! It was $200 delivered to my door. My double flares look correct and they are easy to make. (If you think the double flares are not made correctly, please help a newb out and tell me what should be different.)
See for yourself. These are my results from my very first flare.
Let me just say that I bought an old school flaring tool but it was junk. Never made a good flare - not even one! The die made a scored line and ridge on the head of the tool! I ain't saying it can't be done with the older style, but I lost a week of time and my heart sank when I saw the cheap tool wouldn't do the job.
Is the steel line to the oil pressure gauge flared? It is 1/8 inch steel on mine but it doesn't look like a flare. Either it is different than larger tubing or mine has had some McGuyvering done to it. I was working on my throttle linkage and next thing I know there was an oil fountain from the side of my block. I had touched the connection, but it should not have done that. And thinking of it, most of the steel line connections on my oil system (261 CID) seem a bit weepy.
I can't see the first link Tim - but it does look like the fitting. How does it seal? Now it just looks like a bulge past the fitting - not a flare or compression.
...as you tighten the tube nut it squeezes down on the line and seals it off. I THINK it depends on what your screwing it into for it to work like its suppose to.......someone correct me if I'm wrong.
For what its worth. I bought 10 of those threaded tube nuts from NAPA so I'd have extra's. When I hooked up my guage it took me TWICE cutting the ends off and using a new nut before I ever got it to quit leaking a drop every now and then...... I could never tell if it leaked around the threads or leaked between the copper line and the tube nut. I'd be interested in what others have to say about this...if they had the same leaking problem.
Alvin, it seems to have done exactly what you describe, but I don't know what causes that action. I tried to fit a compression sleeve but there was not enough room. So I pushed the copper tubing through, pushed it to the bottom and tightened the nut tube and miraculously - no leaks!
By the way Tim, I can see the link now - that looks exactly like what I have.
The design y'all are talking about and that Tim posted links/pictures of is a compression sleeve and tube nut "all in one" piece. The end of the tube nut will crimp/compress onto the tube when it is tightened in the fitting. The tube nut is then not reusable on another line.
Tim, thanks so much for those images/links! Based on what Alvin and Grigg say, I think my oil gauge connection is on borrowed time. I could not find a replacement so I reused the old one, and I had to drill it to just get the copper pipe through it. I bet it was too small to fit the tube because it was already compressed. Although it hasn't leaked yet I bet a bit of vibration will create an oil shower on my shoes! Using Tim's link I was able to phone the local Napa store and get a few ordered in this afternoon.
No Mark, the gauge side. I do have the fitting you show on the block side. Well the male version into a tee with an oil pressure switch that appears to do nothing!
