The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline 46 1/2 Ton Huck Brake Configuration

Just about ready to put the whole OE brake system back together. If your expert eyes could look at the pictures of the mocked together parts and let me know if this works or appears correct. I have one drawing, a photo, a few hundred pieces, and memories from two years ago. The primary concern is the bracketry connecting the shoes together and to the rear end proper. Of all possible ways this seems the most logical. Pins and springs are put in and reside from the rear to ease assembly (i.e. the keepers). Do not see any interference between moving parts. Thoughts are appreciated.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/dodsonbrett/sets/72157627571540632/

cavebull, That looks correct to me. I've got some pictures from before I took my brakes apart(not near as clean as yours). If you need them I'll be glad to send them to you. Just shoot me an email and I'll get them off to you.

George
geodebwells@yahoo,com

I just looked in my 48-51 book and they look right to me as well. Go to the old car manual site and check them out as well.

Hey 46,
Thanks for taking a look. Yeah, A picture or two would be great ([email protected]). I have been pretty happy so far with my photo documentation (thanks stoevbolters for the advice to buy a cheap digital camera before beginging). I did not take any of the OE brakes, I guess because the shoes were being held together by bailing wire, it did not appear to be factory, and my plan was an OE restoration.

MikeE,
Old car manual site? Not familiar with that,

Try this

http://www.tocmp.com/

NIIICE! Even found an answer to E brake question.
Cavebull

Here are a couple of pix of a 50, 3600 rear brake, 3100 should be very similar Brett.
http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/image/114877868
http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/image/114877920
This is the whole album of the brakes if you care to look thru them.
http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/wheels__brakes&page=all
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

Denny,
Perfect! Helps a lot, A LOT. I am inspired again.
I like the solid mount of the shoes to the rear proper, without springs and keepers - right rear pict.
Pressure Bleeder: I want something as industrial to fill my system when I am done. I like the adapter for the MC, nice!
Adapters for the bleeders, csn you explain them...they are just threaded tubes for tubing to slip over - thread into the OE bleeder in place of cap screw? After bleed you put cap screw in, correct? Gasket (material) between the bleeder and "cap" screw - you just using a plain washer, no copper, fiber?
Bolts for BP to Spindle are from outside with nuts inside, i like that better.
Dust cover driver - you are the so man!
Your chasing threads on the rear flange for BP, is this OE? My BP's were originally riveted on and I was just going to use grade 8's and lock nuts.
Again thanks and this gives me soem things to think about.
Cavebull

The pressure bleeder isn't really necessary, in fact it’s more trouble than it’s worth just to use it once every couple of years.
The original stock bleeders are threaded and have a cap that’s screwed in after you bleed them, no gasket. I think it was their way of keeping the dirt out before they thought up the rubber caps. So…..to keep the mess down, I made up a set of hose barb fittings that you could screw in to the bleeder while you were bleeding it.
And yes, the 3600 has thread in the housing that the backing plates bolt to.

DG

Got the first bunch of brake refurbish picts on the Flikr site in a folder labeled Huck Brake Refurbish. Includes modification picts for grease fittings on brake and clutch pedal assemblies, finished huck brake install, and cutting in adjustment slots in front 39' backing plates.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/dodsonbrett/sets/72157627774637292/

Cavebull