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Joined: Aug 2011
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K
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Hi all,This my first post, so I thought I would introduce myself and my old 1951 Suburban Carryall.

I bought her in 1973 when I was 19 years old to replace my 1st car, a worn out '53 Chevy. I paid $49 for the truck. Guy wanted $75, but $49 was all I had. She had a bad rod, but I filled up the crankcase 2 quarts over with STP and drove the 100 miles from Winston Salem to Raleigh with that rod a bangin' the whole way.

To tell you the truth, I had no idea what I was doing.

When I got home, I dropped the pan and saw that a dipper was missing from one of the rods, and the crank was pretty gauled up. I decided to put the 235 Powerglide motor from my car in this truck. I totally lucked out on this, as that year motor just dropped right in. Like I said, I had no idea what I was doing. The car had a standard tranny, but a full pressure Powerglide motor with hydraulic lifters. How can this be you say? Well this '53 Chevy had factory power steering, and those cars got the Powerglide engine, even if they were equipped with a standard tranny. As a bonus, I have a double pulley on the crank.

I have driven this truck now for almost 40 years. Many road trips and adventures. Mountains to the sea. I keep her maintained, have rebuilt the engine twice, rebuilt the gear boxes, done what I could with the suspension, rewired her, pretty much fixed what was broken.

Never done much with the body, however.

Over the years I have seen fewer and fewer of the old Panels and Suburbans. I can't remember the last time I saw one here in Raleigh, maybe 15 20 years ago. As beat up as she looks though, I get a load of attention and a big thumbs up wherever I drive.

So why am I here? I was poking around on the Internet looking for a flywheel cover (mine has been missing since 1974) when I ran across this site. It occurs to me that I will be able to find a lot of great info and good folks here. I would like to do some body work, and fix some nagging problems and get some answers to questions such as:

How do I get the dents out?

Why does my steering wander around even everything seems tight?

Why can't I get a good rebuild on a vacumn wiper motor, and

How do I get the knob off my shifter so I can put that nice boot I bought on it?

Anyway, for your enjoyment, here are a few pictures of my truck:

http://www.kearc.com/kurts_photos/truck/DSC_2027.JPG

http://www.kearc.com/kurts_photos/truck/DSC_2052.JPG

Got this bumber sticker at the Los Alamos lab:
http://www.kearc.com/kurts_photos/truck/DSC_2025.JPG

The interior:
http://www.kearc.com/kurts_photos/truck/DSC_2031.JPG

http://www.kearc.com/kurts_photos/truck/DSC_2067.JPG

http://www.kearc.com/kurts_photos/truck/DSC_2068.JPG

Here is the rear seat I made from a Thomas School bus seat:
http://www.kearc.com/kurts_photos/truck/DSC_2033.JPG

http://www.kearc.com/kurts_photos/truck/DSC_2034.JPG

The engine:
http://www.kearc.com/kurts_photos/truck/DSC_2056.JPG

http://www.kearc.com/kurts_photos/truck/DSC_2045.JPG

And here are a few body problems I'd like to repair:

Rear fender at body:
http://www.kearc.com/kurts_photos/truck/DSC_2070.JPG

Just a hole - been there since I bought it:
http://www.kearc.com/kurts_photos/truck/DSC_2072.JPG

Need some rear window TLC:
http://www.kearc.com/kurts_photos/truck/DSC_2075.JPG

And I really need a new sill here at the rear, I think.
http://www.kearc.com/kurts_photos/truck/DSC_2081.JPG

Hope you enjoyed the pictures of the old beast, and if anyone can help me out with any of my questions, I sure would be grateful.

Kurt


















Joined: May 2001
Posts: 7,438
Extreme Gabster
Extreme Gabster
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 7,438
Welcome to the board. Nice project you have there.


"It's just a phase. He'll grow out of it." Mama, 1964

1956 Chevy 1/2-ton 3100
1953 Chevy 6100 "The Yard dog"
1954 GMC Suburban Now with a new proud owner.
Joined: Oct 2004
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G
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thumbs_up Welcome! wave
Originally Posted by Kurt_51carryall
Hi all,This my first post, so I thought I would introduce myself and my old 1951 Suburban Carryall. I would like to do some body work, and fix some nagging problems and get some answers to questions such as:

How do I get the dents out? Buy some Martin body tools and go on youtube to get some ideas on how to remove dents and using a shrinking disk to remove your errors.

Why does my steering wander around even everything seems tight? Have you checked your kingpins? Jack up the front end and wiggle the wheel in and out to see if there is play.

Why can't I get a good rebuild on a vacumn wiper motor, and

How do I get the knob off my shifter so I can put that nice boot I bought on it? If it won't twist off, hit it with a hammer unless you are trying to save it.

Anyway, for your enjoyment, here are a few pictures of my truck:

http://www.kearc.com/kurts_photos/truck/DSC_2027.JPG

http://www.kearc.com/kurts_photos/truck/DSC_2052.JPG

Got this bumber sticker at the Los Alamos lab:
http://www.kearc.com/kurts_photos/truck/DSC_2025.JPG

The interior:
http://www.kearc.com/kurts_photos/truck/DSC_2031.JPG The interior paint looks better than the exterior paint!

http://www.kearc.com/kurts_photos/truck/DSC_2067.JPG

http://www.kearc.com/kurts_photos/truck/DSC_2068.JPG

Here is the rear seat I made from a Thomas School bus seat:
http://www.kearc.com/kurts_photos/truck/DSC_2033.JPG

http://www.kearc.com/kurts_photos/truck/DSC_2034.JPG

The engine:
http://www.kearc.com/kurts_photos/truck/DSC_2056.JPG

http://www.kearc.com/kurts_photos/truck/DSC_2045.JPG

And here are a few body problems I'd like to repair:

Rear fender at body:
http://www.kearc.com/kurts_photos/truck/DSC_2070.JPG Most likely that isn't the only problem with that fender. Remove it and see if there is body damage from underneath where it attaches to the body. It looks like you may have some rust coming from the inside of the body, just over the fender.

Just a hole - been there since I bought it:
http://www.kearc.com/kurts_photos/truck/DSC_2072.JPG Ray Stanley makes patch panels for this area.

Need some rear window TLC:
http://www.kearc.com/kurts_photos/truck/DSC_2075.JPG Common place to find rust. The molding looks like you may need to replace. You will find more issues once you open this up.

And I really need a new sill here at the rear, I think.
http://www.kearc.com/kurts_photos/truck/DSC_2081.JPG Replacing the entire piece can be a bear, but doable. They run from $150-$300 occasionally on ebay. Place an ad in the swap meet section for this part and any other part you may need. We have a lot of suburban folks on this site.

Hope you enjoyed the pictures of the old beast, and if anyone can help me out with any of my questions, I sure would be grateful.

Kurt

If you have not seen this , you might find it useful. ...........g

Joined: May 2002
Posts: 144
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Ter Offline
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Wow, what fun!! That is a long time to drive the same truck.
Looks like the engine bay is well serviced which is the secret to keeping them running.... and .. look at the rear headliner!! That is a record to see one still on the truck.
Nice to see your truck and good luck with the bodywork
Ter

Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 4,215
Leo Offline
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welcome Kurt, there's many more miles left in that truck. Good luck.

Leo

Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,270
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,270

Kurt,

Welcome to Stovebolt.com

I bought my 1954 Chevrolet Suburban in 1971. It was in rougher shape then than yours is now.

As GMONIZ posted, Ray Stanley in MA makes Suburban/Panel patch panels. He makes a beautiful replacement assembly for the rear sill.
Ray Stanley Wheelwright Restorations 92 Pine Street Wheelwright, MA 01904 1-413-477-6467

Vacuum Wipers can be superbly rebuilt by the WiperMan
http://www.wiperman.com/

Have you adjusted the steering gear as described in the Shop Manual?
http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1948_51truck/51ctsm0903.htm

Good luck - thanks for posting so many photos.

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K Offline
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Posts: 835
Gmoniz,

Thanks for the warm welcome and all the good advice.

Great idea about watching bodywork on youtube. Can't wait to find out what a shrinking disk is.

I have replaced the kingpins as well as getting a kit to replace the cups and springs on the draglink and tierods. I'm thinking something (axle?) may be bent. Auto alignment shops have been of little help. Maybe I need to take it to a "big truck" shop.

Amazingly enough I found the rear door sill tonight in the parts for sale section. So I'm on my way!

Kurt

Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 835
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tclederman,

Wow, You have had your Surburban 2 years longer than I have had mine. Happy 40th.

Thanks for the links. I will check them out.

I have adjusted the Steering gear as per the manual. Installed new kingpins as well as the cup kits for the drag link and tie rod. Have installed new bushings on the swaybar as well as installation of the shackle rebuild kits. All this has made the steering better, but...

Steering gets funky when turning at speed. when turning right especially, such as switching lanes, you have to immediately correct to the left. I've been driving her so long it's pretty automatic but I sure would love to "straighten" her out.


Kurt

Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,270
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,270

Kurt,

Toe-in? Can be measured and adjusted.

Caster? Usually just a matter of being sure that the 2-degree wedges are in place on both sides (fat edge to the rear).

Caster? Could be bent axle or bent spindle(s).

http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1948_51truck/51ctsm0312.htm

Wait to hear from someone else who is better versed in steering issues.

Double-posting of a topic is normally discouraged. However, you could re-post this specific question in the General Truck Talk forum. This question is not really panel-body-truck specific. More people read posts in the General Truck Talk forum.

I am going to look for other responses with great interest. The 1954 pickup that I am now restoring had the same severe (and scary) symptom when making a turn. Since every part in the front end was broken, worn severely, and/or bent and abused, I have replaced everything but the front axle. BUt, I'd like to know which bad part was the cause of that problem.

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tclederman

Thanks,

I posted the question in the general forum. I like the on line service info you linked to. In reading the list, it noted that weak springs could be an issue. My front springs are flat. What do you think?

Kurt

Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,388
M
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What I think?

I think your burb looks great!


Christopher
1950 1-Ton
"Rochester"
In the Gallery
In the DITY Gallery

1949 GMC Panel Truck
1926 Model TT Truck
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Thanks for the kind comment Mr. Lang. I'm kind of partial to how she looks myself.

Kurt

Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,270
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,270

Kurt,

Springs would cost you a little under @$200 a set from Classic Parts (and, I think they now have a 10% off sale, too - Code: BACK2S11 until 11 September).

That is a significant expense - I have had to put them on the three trucks that I have restored, due to flatness, broken leaves or bad pivot-bolt holes (shackle end and frame end).

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Tim,

Did you put new springs on the front and the back? I checked Classic parts, and the cost is about $160 each, so $640 for all four plus shipping.
Thinking about just putting them on the front as the back still have a good arch. Would this be a mistake?

Kurt

Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,270
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,270
Kurt,

I HAD to replace them all.

Just put them on the front, if the arc on the back ones look good. If you do not mind the extra work, you might want to check the rear pivot bolts/bushings - I have never seen one that was not badly worn. I'll bet you need those bolts/bushings on the front springs.

Check your shackle parts, too (front and rear).

There is a Tech Tip on making a tool for removing spring bushings from the frame. After breaking two sets made to the specs in the Tech Tip, I made a beefed-up tool that works like a charm. Send me a Private Message with your address and I'd be pleased to send the bushing remover to you (or to anyone else who will promise to send it back quickly).

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Thanks Tim.

I did replace all of the pivot bolts and bushings a few years ago, and I have kept it good and greased up since then, so hopefully I'm still good. I remember that it was a slight PITA to change out the bushings, and I did have to make some kind of tool to do the job.The tool is probably still in my junk box.

That being said, I appreciate the kind offer of the loan of the tool you made, and I'll let you know when I have the springs in hand and am ready to do the job.

Kurt

Joined: May 2007
Posts: 321
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Posts: 321
Hey Kurt, Nice ride! Now there are two Burbs in Raleigh! I live in Holly Springs around the 55 and Avent Ferry area. I got your PM, so we can meet up whenever you like. I'd be happy to help with some advice and tips on your project whenever you'd like!

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Mr. Plummer!

We are not too far away. I live just off of Ridge Road near Wade Avenue. It would be an easy drive. We'll do it some weekend soon.

Kurt


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