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#77435 05/11/2007 4:38 AM | Joined: Aug 2006 Posts: 98 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Aug 2006 Posts: 98 | Replacing the wheel studs on my '60 1/2 ton.Got the front done but can't seem to get the rear ones in.They stop about an 1/8 of inch before they seat.I'm using an air impact gun.Have tried using a breakover with a cheater but just busted the stud.Anybody got a solution? | | |
#77436 05/11/2007 9:43 PM | Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 Riding in the Passing Lane | | Riding in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 | It shouldnt be a problem. You could have the wrong studs. They usually pull in with a nut & stack of washers. Put some anti sieze or grease on them. You might grind the shoulder down a little.
They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing. 1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne SuperIn the Gallery Forum | | |
#77437 05/11/2007 10:19 PM | Joined: Aug 2006 Posts: 98 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Aug 2006 Posts: 98 | I've checked with the local automotive store and they tell me they're the right ones this time.First time they did give my the wrong ones tho. | | |
#77438 05/11/2007 11:46 PM | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 . | | . Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 | A hydraulic press works great.
Or sometimes a "ball joint press" the big C-clamp looking tool, also used for U-joints, will work.
Grigg | | |
#77439 05/12/2007 12:56 AM | Joined: Aug 2006 Posts: 98 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Aug 2006 Posts: 98 | My dad has a press but I'm trying to keep from splitting the axel. | | |
#77440 05/12/2007 1:53 AM | Joined: Sep 2003 Posts: 2,384 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2003 Posts: 2,384 | Stick them in the freezer a coupla hours & put them in one at a time, leaving the others to stay cold. | | |
#77441 05/12/2007 2:45 AM | Joined: Jan 2007 Posts: 172 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jan 2007 Posts: 172 | I just used the nut and stack of washers process. Worked fine on my eight lug hubs. You do have to watch how soon you handle the nut though...mine got a bit warm.
One trick was to line up the ridges on the stud with the slots already worked into the hub.
1965 Chevy C-30 1-Ton "Work like you don't need the money. Love like you've never been hurt. Dance like nobody's watching." | | |
#77442 05/12/2007 4:18 AM | Joined: Aug 2006 Posts: 98 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Aug 2006 Posts: 98 | Thanks for all the tips guys.I'm going to give the freezer thing a try tomorrow.I've replaced many a lug bolts in my day and never had a problem like this before.Wish now I hadn't taken the old bolts out.Wasn't anything wrong with them I was just wanting new ones put in.Live and learn I guess. | | |
#77443 05/12/2007 6:12 AM | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,748 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,748 | Use a deepwell socket or an old piston pin over the thread, and press the stud into the axle flange with a big C clamp. Get as much tension as you can on the clamp, then smack the end of the clamp screw with a BFH. The stud will move a little. Then tighten the clamp and smack it with the hammer again. The combination of clamping force and hammer blows will seat the stud without overstressing the thread by using the nut/washer approach. If you stretch the thread with too much torque, you're wasting your time installing a new stud.
Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
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