The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop What's a Holley/Weber?

I see posts that talk about Holley/Weber and Carter/Weber carburators. I know what a Holley is, what a Carter is and what a Weber Carburator is but what's a Holley/Weber?

It's a carb that's a Weber design, manufactured by either Holley or Carter. It's a progressive 2 bbl design, similar to the Rochester 2SE. I seem to recall that one of the original applications was on the ford pinto/mustang 2.

Thanks, I thought I'd missed a merger or buy-out.

Here's a picture of dual Holley Webers purchased from Tom Langdon on my Chev 261 engine.

http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2499747920010188466ywhokG

http://community.webshots.com/user/geezer

What is a Holley/Weber???

IMHO, it's the best solution to replacing a worn out 50 year old carb!!! Smooth idle, no hesitation, improved performance....I look at it as a heart transplant for the Stovebolt 6.

Add to that, it's not that complicated to install and the cost is just a few bucks more than buying a rebuilt 1bbl based on a worn-out core with a cheap kit installed.

If you're not all hung up on keeping everything original, and planning on actually driving your truck/car, it puts the fun back in moving the "old Iron" down the highway. Ditto on the Carter/Webers that are paired up for a multi-carb
setups. I've run both setups and swear by them!!!! Just drive!!!

Dave

Hey Dave, since you have run both the H/W and C/Ws which ones would you use for a dual setup on a warmed up 235? I'm thinking about getting rid of my rochesters and going with something else.

Thanks
George

Hi George,

The Holley/Weber is Tom Langdon's recommended carb for a single carb application on a 235. A pair of Carter/Weber's are his recommendation on a dual setup on a 235. The Holley is a higher CFM carb and you'll find guys running them in pairs on the warmed up 261's.

My 235 has been bored, dynamically balanced, had some head work and has a split Fenton setup...I cammed it for low-end torque. I can cruise effortlessly at 70 mph at 2000 rpm's in 5th gear and drop down to 50 mph and accelerate without a downshift. (.72 OD, 3.42 R&P, 28" tire dia). I was running close to 20 mpg in my old 235 with a single H/W and expect to better that after my run-in period.

The best part of a conversion is that it's a relatively simple bolt-on. On the single H/W, I cut off the 90 degree bend at the top of the vertical rod off the bellcrank, added some fine threads and screwed on his included rod end. The stock carb studs are too long and he includes shorter studs. With the H/W I bought his 12v electric choke conversion, adjusted my idle, tweaked the single idle adjustment screw (which was about 1/8 turn) and she was good-to-go! His $65.00 H/W is a rebuilt but I heard you could get a new one from him for an additional $10. The whole setup ran me about $125. and I also bought his spun-aluminum breather kit which was a bit pricey at $45.00.

The dual Carter/Weber setup with adaptors, linkage kit, carbs, included 12v electric chokes, which I put on an Offy intake, were also simple bolt-ons. However, getting the linkage tweaked took some time. I'm running exhaust heat (he recommends water heat) which uses his heat plate and the back corner needs to be trimmed a little for additional linkage movement. The Offy intake will leak water unless the core holes on the bottom are welded up. The exhaust heat works great and the performance was once again, near-perfect right out of the box. I've got pictures of the process in my webshots "shoebox" and also in the "tips and tricks" album.

After struggling with the stock "R" carb with it's tendency to need adjustment, hesitation, and the smell of gas in the cab I would HIGHLY recommend either the H/W or the C/W setups. You won't be disappointed! Just Drive!

Dave

Thanks for all the great information. I'm putting a T-5 in my '41 right now and after patching the floor and a new seat, my plan is for a 235 or 261 with dual carbs. Sounds like the Holley/Weber or Carter/Weber is the right way to go. I probably would have gone with stock type carbs if I hadn't asked this question.

Harold, I also run the Holley/Webbers on my 235 and they run great. I agree with Dave's assesment it is the best change you can make. I am getting 21mph in OD on the highway with a dual carb setup and love it.
Tom

Just curious who sells those carbs?

Thank you for that website...I was looking for it.

How much HP increase do you think you'd get with this carb on a 235 (single barrel intake)?

Think it would be difficult to give a HP increase number. However, after running a rebuilt Rochester on my decent running 235 for 6 months and becoming familar with it's tendency to run "a bit" rich at idle and have some very obvious flat spots when accelerating, changing to the H/W completely eliminated all these little quirks. The 12v electric choke worked flawlessly and the overall improvement in driveability was immediately evident. The improved performance of the H/W motivated me to go with the Carter/Webers on my new setup. I've got some pics in my albums of the H/W install on the stock manifold as well as the C/W setup on my replacement engine. Hope this helps.

Dave

Ive spent 2 days straight of nothing more than sittin in this chair staring at my computer screen reading about carbs and intakes. If you wouldve said Offenhauser last week, i wouldve said bless you. Let me tell ya, my head fells like a soaked watermelon full of everclear. lol

Ive figured out a few things, Use the old Rochester B carb as a paperweight. And that Holley/Weber seems to be the prefered carb for a single set up.

Ive also read that a dual setup it is best for max efficiency. So why is it you would recommend a C/W instead of a H/W for a dual setup?

Hi DJ

You're on the money with the old Rochesters. I'm sure there are those out there who are willing to take time to put bushings in the carb base to shore up a sloppy throttle shaft and bake the air horn to straighten it out. Returning trucks to their original glory is a big part of the Stovebolt scene. However, if you're looking for a no fuss, no muss, carb for your "driver" the H/W's and C/W's have proven their stuff...at least to me.

To answer your question.....on a relatively stock 216 or 235 a single H/W is just the ticket. It more closely matches the CFM needs of a stock engine. A single C/W would be a little less carb than you needed. On a dual setup, with a relatively stock 216/235 a pair of Carter/Webers would be the preferred setup. On a 261 or a cammed 235 with some tweaking a pair of H/W's would be more to your liking.

Are you getting the picture?

As for max efficiency...in my case the jury is still out on my dual C/W's on an Offy intake with a tweaked engine, built for low-end torque. As far as performance, it's a pure hoot to drive, coupled with the 5 speed and a 3.42 diff.
I've only put about 450 miles on my fresh engine so mileage-wise I can't verify the 20-21 mpg I'm aiming for at 60-65 mph. Even if I have to settle for 18mpg I will be happy with my setup. I have observed that my #1 and #6 cylinder exhaust header temps are down which leads me to believe that the lean burn (and resulting higher temps) I was experiencing with the single Rochester carb have been effected. This is by no means a scientific analysis...just something I've noted with my little infrared handheld thermometer.

There are a number of H/W's and C/W's being run by various truck owners who use this forum...I've yet to find anyone who has any negative feedback....the carbs are reasonably priced, relatively easy to install, and you have Tom Langdon (he's a real live person in Michigan, USA) to ring up if you do hit a bump in the road. As I see it...it's a viable alternative to nursing a 50 year old carb that has seen better days. I personally don't think you will regret the upgrade! Hope this helps.

Dave

I agree with Dave. The dual Holley/Webers on my 261 scare me. Have been f**king around with the carb linkage and throttle rod from the pedal through the bellcrank for a couple of weeks now. Finally got it straightened out. Pedal pressure is much reduced and now get both primarys and secondarys open at full pedal. Only problem is my underpowered 1949 drive train and old truck body trying to keep up with the rebuilt monster under the hood! Adjusted the linkages for smooth dual operation and used a magnehelic gauge with pitot tube to set the idle and mixture screws to make the acceleration smooth. Had a lot of doubts early on but the dual Holley Webers work very nicely.

http://community.webshots.com/user/geezer