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Click on image for the lowdown. 
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| | | Forums66 Topics128,154 Posts1,056,850 Members48,456 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
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For helping keep this great
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 12 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: May 2006 Posts: 12 | I am getting ready to install a fresh 235 in my 55 1st series 1/2 ton. I have all of the parts that it talks about in the tech tip. My question is on the top plate. One side is turned down. Does that face the front or the rear. I don't find any mention of that in the manual or in the tech tip. Or does it matter which way it goes? Thanks G. Hays | | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 9,671 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 9,671 | I'm assuming that your talking about this part G. You can click Previous or Next to see other pictures of the front motor mount: http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/image/128165791/large Denny Graham Sandwich, IL
Last edited by Denny Graham; 08/16/2011 1:46 AM.
Denny G Sandwich, IL
| | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 12 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: May 2006 Posts: 12 | Denny, thanks for the help. The pictures showed me which way to face the plate. Thanks again. | | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 12 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: May 2006 Posts: 12 | I finally have my engine and transmission set where everything is centered. I have one final question on the front motor mount. On the 2 center holes that go through the engine bracket. If I am thinking right, I don't actually tighten them to the crossmember. The outer 2 are the ones that are attahed to the crossmember. Please let me know it that is right.
Thanks
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 9,671 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 9,671 | The two center bolts do not go thru the cross member but bolt solidly to the front engine plate, they should use a lock nut and they should be tight. There should be 1/16" +/_ 1/64" clearance between the lower steel retainer that holds the rubber mount and that upper cover plate you were asking about with the curved lip on the front side before the motor is bolted to the frame. The outer bolts do go thru the frame and should only be tightened down enough to maintain the clearance. Originally the bolts would have had castle nuts that were locked with cotter pins when the nut and bolt are snugged up. And alternative is to use Nylock nuts (elastic stop nut) and adjust them till it is snug, maintaining the 1/16" clearance. You are instructed to file or grind the upper edge of the lower retainer if the clearance is less than 3/64". This is one of those odd-ball instructions because most people naturally want to torque the bolts that hold the motor to the frame down tight. It’s possible to close the gap up completely simply by tightening the nuts as you are instructed to do. In my opinion it should tell you to just snug the nuts up before locking the nut to the bolt. What I've done is to just make sure that the rubber is under some tension and that there is some clearance between the retainer and the cover plate. You can read the instructions here if you care to: http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1954truck/54ctsm0613.htmlDenny Graham Sandwich, IL
Last edited by Denny Graham; 08/24/2011 1:14 AM.
Denny G Sandwich, IL
| | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 12 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: May 2006 Posts: 12 | Thanks for the response Denny. That is the way I thought everything worked but I just wanted to be sure. You have been a great help.
Grant Hays | | |
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