The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Chevy 350ci timing

I have a Chevy 350ci in my 60 Apache10,I think it's from a 1976 model C10. It may have had some mods done to the motor and has headers but nothing radical to my knowledge. I was wondering what the timing should be set at, I have it at 10 degrees BTDC, and sounds fine but I just wanted opinions from others on the list with 350's.
Thanks,
Joe

10 is fine

Have mine set at 12 deg BTDC. It's in my '63 C20 and came out of a '72 Blazer. Am about to put on higher compression heads, so I'm sure I'll play with it a little more after the heads are installed.

There have been a number of posts recently on what to set timing at on the 6, and I think it works equally as well on the V8 (I've used this method on every carbureted engine I've ever had). For the ultimate in power and economy, give it all she'll take. Keep advancing it until you can hear a slight ping under load (like, going up a long hill) then back it off slightly until the ping just disappears. Every engine is different so the actual timing number can vary from engine to engine. Try it, I think you'll like it!!

I like waldo53's idea,but 10BTDC is a good start

Thanks guys for the help I appreciate it. I went through this with a Triumph TR8 I own and had to keep tweaking it and I'm still not sure if it's right, but I just sold the car.
Joe

Initial timing is only 1/3 of the timing equation. You have to be concerned with the total timing advance, which is a combination of initial, centrifugal, and vacuum advance. Initial advance is what's set with a timing light, at idle speed, with the vacuum line disconnected and plugged. Then there's cewntrifugal, which is speed-dependent from a set of weights on the distributor shaft opposed by springs. The higher the speed, the more the advance, until the system reaches a mechanical lock. Then there's vacuum advance, which responds to ported vacuum from the carburetor throat. it's supposed to go away at idle, be high during part-throttle cruise, and go away again at full throttle.

The combination of initial and centrifugal advance that works best for small-block V-8's is 36 to 37 degrees at about 2,500 RPM and higher. The vacuum advance will add about 10 degrees for part-throttle cruise operation, so up to 46 or 47 degrees for an engine running at no load and 3,000 RPM is not uncommon. Disconnect the vacuum line, and it should drop to 36 or so. I like to set the advance to 36 at high cruise, with the vacuum disconnected, and let the initial setting seek its own level. As long as the engine starts without a kickback, and it doesn't detonate on a pull, you're good to go. This method requires a delay-flash timing light, however, to return the timing mark to zero from cruise RPM.

I also alter advance curves and total centrifugal advance on my race engines, but that requires a distributor tester and some filing, welding, spring changes, etc. Like the disclaimer on TV says, "Don't try this at home!"
Jerry

Thanks Jerry,
I appreciate your help,and detailed post.
Joe

I wouldn,t set the timing by the ping point under load as it seems to end up with to much advance...Start in the 6 to 10 range and see what it drives like also as stated what is your total....doc