The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Electrical Bay 8N 6 volt genny to 12 volts

I own a 1949 Ford 8N tractor. Surely you know what they look like, and no doubt seem them out in the cow pastures, behind old barns, and probably in a parades. This picture here is mine. I've own it since 1960.

About eight years ago I converted it to 12 volt Electronic Ignition system. And I can say, the old Red Belly never ran any better with 12 volts. But, here's my plan. You will notice I have a 12 volt 10SI Alternator. I want to convert back to the old original Generator. I still have the 6 volt generator. My plans to remove the 6 volt Field coils and replace with 12 volt Field coils. Still keep the Distributor with the Pertronix Igniter in the distributor, install a 12 volt voltage regulator with "B" circuit, and replace the Electronic Ignition wiring back to the NEW original 6 volt wiring diagram.

Now, do you think it can be done? From reading many posts here, you men appear to have the knowledge to solve any electrical problems on old Ford.

[IMG]http://i685.photobucket.com/albums/vv218/Tahoe1996/1949Ford8NTractor025.jpg[/IMG]

If the alternator is working OK why not leave well enough alone. UNLESS you want to go back to original appearance.

If so you may be able to supply more voltage to shunt field to get 12V output OR speed generator up. In either case you will have to modify or replace the regulator which is always the tricky part with motor and generator setups ie doing it is easy with manual control - automatic control is a whole new bag of worms. Can and is done though.


Voltage is just a matter of insulation resistance. I would think going from 6 to 12 V should not matter - you will not bother the insulation. Heat is what destroys insulation in most cases.

Do NOT exceed design current. Ohms law and power thus heat always apply.


Dan Bentler

You really don't want to get into swapping field coils. It's a royal pain in the butt and takes a dedicated "pole shoe vise" to hold the socket or drag link tool tight enough into the bolt that attaches the pole shoe to the housing to keep from stripping it out. Unless there's an oldtime electrical rebuilder in your neighborhood, it's unlikely anyone around the parts supply business has ever seen one. IF you managed to change the field coils, you're only halfway there. You would still need a 12 volt armature.

Does the generator on your 8N have the oddball front housing that also mounts the fan pivot, or is it mounted off to one side like a normal generator? If it's an offset mount type, just get a 1956 Ford 12 volt generatorand bolt it on. It's the only 12 volt Ford that's set up for positive ground. Use the right regulator, and you'll have a stock-appearing system with the right voltage and polarity to run 12 volts. If you want to run 12V negative ground so you can still use the Pertronix (can't imagine why you would) just use a 1957-61 Ford generator and a negative ground regulator.
Jerry

Hombre33

Please note that this site is for Chevy pickup trucks; Stovebolts.

Some here are complaining that posts which are unrelated to Chevy pickups should not be allowed.

I may know motor control BUT
Jerry has forgotten more than I know about what is on the market for various adaptations of automotive equipment. I recommend you listen to him.

Dan Bentler

Thanks Jerry for the very accurate way to solve the problem. The factory 6 volt generator mounts to the right side on a pivot bracket...Just as the alternator shows in the picture I sent. My reason to go back to the generator is the appearance factor...I made a tool to remove the "pole Shoes" screws, so, there's no problem re-installing them as tight as they were. There's a person out in Oregon that rebuilds/converts 6 volts generator to 12 volts. He is sending me the correct 12 volt Field coils and the correct 12 volt 3 terminal voltage regulator. I don't need to change the 6 volt armature to 12 volts, although I will lose about 18% to 20% of my AMPS with this setup. My main reason to go back to the original look, do away with the old system of points, condenser, etc, and add a high energy external 12 volt round can coil. NOTE: I didn't know 1956 Ford were 12 volts. I thought 12 volts didn't come till 1959.

Jerry, I might mention, the 1956 Ford Generator would be the right choice to convert, it's the bracket that would be the problem. Here is a photo of a 8N generator. The front end and mid bracket on the generator has to mate to the 8N Governor to run the engine fan belt. Otherwise, there wouldn't be any problem using the '56 Ford generator.

[IMG]http://i685.photobucket.com/albums/vv218/Tahoe1996/KGrHqMOKoYE33qsEZLBOLbT24Nf0_12-1.jpg[/IMG]

The 56 Ford electrical system was the last one to use positive ground, and yes, it was 12 volts. in 57, all the automotive manufacturers standardized their electric systems at 12V negative so aftermarket accessories like radios could interchange. I've got an 8N back in the weeds that will come up as a restoration project one of these days, but I'll probably go with an alternator and my own adaptation of an electronic ignition. It's relatively simple to use a magnetic trigger from any 4-cylinder electronic distributor to cycle a GM or Ford module, and you've got all over-the-counter parts, not somebody's ridiculously expensive proprietary system. I don't think anybody could run fast enough to give me a Pertroinix. Does yours have the pancake-style distributor mounted on the end of the camshaft? If so, your choices for an electronic trigger might be somewhat limited. That one's similar to the flathead V-8 distributor used up to 1948, but the tractor distributor has a 4-lobe cam instead of 8.
Jerry