The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Timing a 235/without indicators

So I finally got motivated enough to replace my points and do a timing job last weekend for the first time. On my none driving truck.
I successfully replaced the points.
But when I went to do the timing (going by my Shop Manual) I got stumped because my harmonic balance doesn't have a timing mark or dial indicator. I know from working with Air-cooled motors that there is a certain formula to follow in order to achieve Top Dead Center.

Even though I couldnt do the timing the truck idles better now with the new points. But it still back fires at high RPM's and loss of power. So now I want to replace the condenser and do a timing job.

Any tips on how to do a timing job without the timing indicators?

Billybolt,

I thought every 235 had the peep hole and flywheel markings for timing and TDC. I didn't think ANY 235 had the setup on the crank pulley.

Stuart

The way I always have timed 235's is to advance the distributor until it starts to run rough, then back it off until it smoothes out. Then drive it to see if it pings, if not you got it right if it pings, retard it a tiny bit at a time until it stops. May be "backyard shadetree mechanic" way, but it works. I had a 1953 Chev. sedan with a 235 that ran like a champ, held several drag strip records and got me trophies, that I timed like that and it did great.

Pull the valve cover, and watch the #6 cylinder rocker arms. Turn the engine over slowly by hand, or put the transmission in high gear and roll the truck forward until the exhaust valve is almost closed, and the intake valve is just beginning to open. The #1 piston will be at top dead center, or very close to it. Turn the distributor housing clockwise until the points close, then turn it counterclockwise until they barely break open. You can find that point by touching the distributor side connector at the coil with a test light with the ignition switch turned on. Turn the dizzy clockwise until the light goes out, then back it up until the light comes on. You'll be "static timed" close enough to start and run. Test drive, and advance the timing (counterclockwise) until it pings on acceleration or a steady pull, then retard it slightly until the ping goes away. Happy motoring!
Jerry

Yea Automarc I didn’t know this, I asked my Brother-in-law about it last night and I had no Idea to look at the fly wheel.
I will check it out this weekend again.

I know about the other way to do the timing. Drive it till it pings then re adjust the timing, but I have a problem with that method. I live in CA. out in the country but there are a lot of Idiots that live here (including my self) and they drive up and down my road like crazy. Especially the rich Soccer moms with their SUV's. The chicks in their fancy SUV's are worse, even worse than the young punks in their fancy lifted trucks!!!

Please keep in mind that you can't always detect pinging by ear. If you're right on the edge, you may not hear it, but still damage your engine over time.

On the other hand factory timing marks are usually 'close' but not exact.

If you really want to be sure use the degree wheel method. You can do this on most engines without removing the cylinder head.

Make sure you use the hole on the passenger side above the starter. The hole on the driver's side is easier to see but isn't the right hole.

Cool, Thanks 4onthefloor