The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Need some advice on tie rod end upgrade

I have just finished changing out the old tie rod end to a updated tie rod end. I think they call the updated tie rod ends "essentric" tie rods? Well I spent about 15 hours getting out the ball on the control arm on the passenger side control arm. I ground off the bottom side where the ball was peened in. I then went to trying to drive out the old ball with a punch and hammer. That didn't work to well. I then cut off the ball end then drilled through it. Then went back to beating the crap out of it with a punch and hammer it moved a little. I then took the sledge hammer to it it moved a little more. I then drilled a bigger hole through it and went to beating the crap out of it. Finally after hours of beating the crap out of it the little piece of round metal came out. I still have to change out the drivers side tie rod end. Does anyone happen to know of a easier way to get the ball off of the control arm? Or is the way I had to do it the only way to get er done? One thing I can say about the control arm is that it is made of good old fashioned american steel. Thanks in advance for any help on this.

I use a press & then it takes some real pressure. I don't know any other way.

Here is a link to a tech tip article.
tie-rod

Tim

The last few lines of that tech tip give the secret of the operation. There is a small chamfer inside the bore under the peened area. If you remove the metal from there it will push out easily.

Has anyone ever tried cutting off the ball, grinding off the collar and then driving the end out backwards. Or is that much more difficult?

tracer1, I had to laugh when I read your posting. I had the same nightmare you are having.

After you grind off the peened end, then, as the Tech Tip says, "drill a small hole working progressively bigger. Not too big to drill into the steering arm." I think I progressed up to a 3/8" drill bit. Also, be careful not to break the drill bit off in the hole.

Then, I turned my vise into a press. I used a 1/2" drive socket on the ball end that was large enough for the ball to slide into. Used a 3/8" bolt in the drilled end, so it sticks out about an inch or so.

Placed socket and bolt ends in vise and tightened as much as I could. Make sure you line up the socket and bolt. Then, "delivered a couple of sharp blows" to the vise on the socket side or bolt side.

Tightened the vise a little, a couple more sharp blows and it moved.

Took it out of the vise, removed socket and bolt. Put ball end in vise, and was able to spin it a little pulling on the arm.
After that, I knocked it out using the bolt as a punch.

Don't forget the Kroil Penetrating Oil a couple of days before you start, and during the process.

When you get the pin/ball out, you will see that the pin is tapered. The peened end of the pin is smaller then the ball side.

Oilrag

Thanks for the great tips on removing the ball of the control arm. But I went ahead and carried the drivers side to a local machine shop and let them have the headache of the second control arm ball removal it was well worth the 30 bucks. He heated the ball end up some with a torch after grinding on the peened side. Then put it in a press and got it out. Took em about a hour best 30 bucks I have spent in a while, they had the right equipment and it saved me a bunch of time and pain. I spent over 30 bucks on drill bits getting the passenger side one out. Not to mention the banged fingers and the time it took me. I have learned a lot restoring this old truck. But 2 of the most important ones I think are these. Next time I need to replace the rear main bearing seal I will take it to the shop and pay the $250.00 and save myself the time and pain. As much as I hate to admit it, I'm getting to old to crawl under a vehicle for 4 hours. And the second important lesson is to carry some things to the machine shop and let them have the headache.

TRY THIS
http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/draglink_adjustable.html

Thanks for the link