| |
Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| | | Forums66 Topics128,052 Posts1,055,740 Members48,426 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
| | THANKS!
For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 117 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 117 | After a number of years of sitting, waiting for me to get back to it, I've finally got the '50 running and driving down the road reliably (see truck and engine info below). Along with the old familiar engine, body, and general tin can noise there are a number of new rattles and ticks coming from the engine. One tick is pretty wicked when cold but the edge is gone when warm. Bad or sticky lifter? Another is a light knock when warm and only really when coming off the throttle and coasting in gear.
Also, the oil pressure drops to 10 or 15 psi when idling or shifting at low speeds. When I pulled the pan last there was a bunch of silver bearing material in the sump, not chunks just fine powder. More than I though there should be.
I want to end up with a hot rodded 6 when im done with this project so i have a 292 waiting for a rebuild but i dont want to spend the money yet if I can avoid it. Do the above symptoms spell impending doom for the 235 or can I milk it while gathering parts and getting the rest of the truck up to snuff?
I believe in doing things right the first time but i'm on a limited budget and if i did the engine now i would have a hot 292 with a stock 4 speed, crappy, wiring, and poor brakes on the rear end.
I knows it's difficult to diagnose engine problems online but just wanted to see what you all thought. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 1,636 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 1,636 | If you see bearing material in the oil then you need to rebuild. Before you ruin a crank. Time to find out for sure where that material is coming from. | | | | | Joined: Nov 2006 Posts: 2,544 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2006 Posts: 2,544 | I'd pull the oil pan and adjust the rod and main bearings. If you do find one that is gone you might be able to change out a rod and get by a bit longer. Back in the day it was a common maintenance to have to adjust the bearings. | | | | | Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 117 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 117 | I should have also mentioned it is a later high pressure 235 with insert bearings. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 | I don't think there should ever be bearing material in the sump. Something is going to pieces and those pieces are circulating throughout the motor. I think you have a ticking time bomb there and it would be best to take it apart. | | |
| |
| |