The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Is this clutch OK?

What do I do with the clutch? Just bolt it in? Take it to a machine shop? Replace it?

Do I need to have anything done to the flywheel?

Clutch
5/16"

Looks like there is plenty of meat left on the disc and the flywheel and PP look to be in fairly good shape, a little hard to tell until it's derusted.
As long as the disc isn't oil soaked I'd just clean wash it good a make sure none of the springs are damaged. You can clean it up with some 180-220 grit paper.
I'd do the same with the PP and FW. Wash them good wire brush the rust, make sure nothing is loose or worn then use some paper to remove the rust. I'd use an Arkansas stone with some oil to clean up the surface.
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

Hy Stove, I would clean the rust off of the flywheel and the pressure plate. The thickness of the disc is not as critical as how deep the rivet heads are in the clutch material, 1/32" would be the minimum for reuse. When you lay the components on the flywheel you will see a gap between the flywheel surface and the pressure plate mount surface, that gap is how much clamp force the clutch will have, the smaller the gap the lighter the clamping force, and the shorter the time the clutch will last, hope that helps.

Thanks! I have about 1/16" depth to the rivets, and there is about 1/8" when I lay the components together. I'll clean it up and bolt it on. How many miles do you think I'll get before replacement is necessary?

What is the best way of assembling this to the block? I'm thinking I'll set the front mount on a 4x4, and bolt on the flywheel, clutch and bellhousing with the engine supported by the hoist.

I like to use 4 jack stands to lower it onto, then leave the hoist connected just in case.

Where does the engine rest on the jackstands?

I set oil pan bolts on the stands.

Or if your engine stand is sturdy enough: http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/image/136171621
Makes installing the flywheel and clutch a breeze.
Denny G

Whooooo [whistle]! That's slick, but I'm not convinced my stand would support the engine + bellousing.

OK, the engine is resting on jackstands, and I'm planning to attach the flywheel, clutch, and then bellhousing. Then, slide the engine into the transmission and bolt it down. Does this sound right?

Denny, after looking at your photos it almost looks like the bellhousing goes on first. (Your photos are terrific!).

Bell housing must go on first because it bolts to the block behind the flywheel. Make sure the two surfaces are clean and that the dowels are in place and in good shape. Also make sure you torque the six bell housing bolts before you replace the flywheel. http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/image/128167769/large http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/image/135685978/large

Next comes the flywheel, I use a dab of Permatex 3H item#80019 on the threads to seal them from leaking oil. Bend the tabs on the bolt locks after torquing the bolts.
http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/image/136174138/large


DG

The bellhousing went in no problem! But the flywheel was a little more difficult.

It seemed like it only wanted to fit one way. Plus it was kind of heavy to hold and align the dowels simultaneously. And the engine wanted to turn when the bolts were torqued, so a screwdriver in one of the cylinders was necessary. I used thread sealant though, just like Denny said!

And the "bend-lock washers" were kind of a pain, two of the corners broke when bent. And the bend was difficult to get started. Is there a trick to these?

Clutch installation is next.

Bellhousing
Bellhousing - another view
Flywheel
Lockwashers

No big trick Stove, but I do have an old screwdriver that I ground down and use to get under the tabs on these kind of lock plates. http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/image/136474131/large
A light tap with a hammer bends them up about half way then I set them with a punch about as wide as the tab.
To lock the flywheel for touquing I just use a 2" C-clamp that stops against the bottom of the bellhousing.
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

Thanks Denny! Why didn't I think of that?

OK the clutch disc is in, but I don't see how the fork connects to the linkage. Denny do you have a photo of the clutch linkage?

Clutch
Fork & throwout bearing
Linkage

Yepper!
http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/image/136500403/large
DG

Denny like your engine stand. i noticed on the oil pan there is a clip. is that where the throttle return spring connects and if it is . where can i find one? or can i make a copy ? tks tt

1941-1953 accelerator linkage return spring clip

There you go Florida, but there isn't much to makin' one, a little strip of 1/32" sheet metal and you'll save your self fout bucks plus that ten for shipping. http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/image/136543295/large
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

Thanks. nice drawing. four bucks wasnt bad but s&h makes it a little high. will get the vice hammer and tinsnips out later. would that be correct for 59 also ? not that anyone under my truck would know.

Can't help ya there tt, I can't think past 1955 1st. series.

DG

That went well, piece of roof strap. The numbers on the bends were right on. looks like it belongs there. Thanks.