The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop newbie with 216 questions

hi everyone,
recently picked up this project and have a few questions about the engine. never having worked on one of these i was hoping someone here can share their wisdom.
here is a pic of what looks like an oil line coming out of the block and being re-routed right back into it. the engine when i got it had no external oil filter so i was wondering if this is some sort of bypass somebody put in. also what is the little access cover right beside it for? i have seen other pics of 216's and it looks like there is a bracket that goes around the intake manifold that holds the oil filter.
[IMG]http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m607/macslim11/52chevy096.jpg[/IMG]

also, there is a big stud threaded into the top of the block at the rear of the engine and was wondering if anybody knew what this is meant for or if the po just used this to block the hole. here is a pic of that

[IMG]http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m607/macslim11/52chevy097.jpg[/IMG]

thanks for any info,
ryan

Where that big stud is,your temperature gauge sending unit screws into the head .It probably broke at one time and someone plugged the hole.


Tim

The oil line in the first pic goes through the water jacket and supplies oil to the rocker arms. The other end of that circuit can be found where the two rocker arm shafts connect, the part with the steel line connected to it. The sheet metal plate on the driver's side of the block is an "oil distributor" which supplies reduced-pressure oil to the tube that goes through the block. The port beside the oil distributor with the bolt screwed into it provides a pressure reference to the dash gauge through a small-diameter line, and also provides a point to attach a bypass-type oil filter. The return line for the filter attaches to a port just ahead of the oil distributor, near the oil pan rail.

Jerry

I'm no expert on the "new" 216s but I believe you're asking about the oil distributor valve. This is what they looked like '37 through '39. The cover you refer to is your distributor valve. If you put on a bypass oil filter it would indeed mount to the manifold. This is the filter on my '38. The later models would mount on the front runner of the manifold because the vacuum port was moved to where the older filters mounted (as in my pic).

thanks guys for the quick replies. i read in the shop manual about the temp gauge and oil distributer but it didn't show any pics to put it all together for me.

planning to remove the engine next week and hopefully get it running. the exhaust manifold valve for the carb heat is seized pretty good. might as well be spot welded in place. any ideas how to unseize it? have been soaking it with pb penetrant for a couple days and giving it a couple love taps with a bfh every now and then. would heating it up with a torch do any good or just stay patient and keep soaking it?

thanks,
ryan

I would try some heat around the area and that should help.

do some studying on these engines, they are like nothing you have ever seen, I'm building one with full pressure to the rods, and full flow oil filter. It is fun, not cheap, but fun. oh and if you are in a hurry, forget it...

Tap the ends of the shaft, in the direction of the length of the shaft, front to back.

Don't tap the counter weight trying to get the shaft to turn, or you will break it like I did.

And be careful not to break the spring like I did. The end of the shaft is split and the spring slides out.

thanks for the tips. if anything i have a lot more time than money and not in any big hurry. if it takes 2 yrs or 20 yrs it will get done. one of the main reasons i got this project is to have an excuse for my two young sons to have a reason to hang out in the garage, spin some wrenches and make some memories you know? if i get stalled on the engine 'cause of budget or parts or whatever there is no shortage of other work to be done on the truck!

yep, yesterday my four year old daughter was helping me change the oil. She climbed up on the front bumper to pour in the oil using a BIG funnel. She still missed a bit, but thats fine.

Continue the penetrant bath. Easy taps on the shaft. Check if the valve is open. If it is, the exhaust will have a path to exit. I would not suggest using the 'torch' method, a heat gun and or a 1500 watt hair dryer will apply needed heat.....and keep soaking it as you heat it/ tap it. Good luck with your project.
Note: the original thread for the temp in the head is 3/8 NPT. If you need to repair the opening, make sure you have the space for the themo tube to insert.

macslim,
I just noticed that you are a fellow Ontario resident! Welcome neighbour. These motors are a lot of fun and very tough.

By the way, my favourite treatment for rusted shafts etc. is a product called Fluid Film. It comes in a can and is sold at Canadian Tire, CarQuest and a lot of other places.

Fred

Up to 1955 the head is not pipe thread, it is 5/8"-18 Thread.

Wow, I was going to comment that someone ruined a pipe thread hole. That is interesting.