The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Tool Chest Building a hand crank

Anyone have any suggestions on building a hand crank for a '48 liftmaster with a 235?

If you have a 1948 Thriftmaster, most likely you have a non-original engine. Do you have a newer, high-pressure 1954-63 235?

If so, you will need to use the harmonic balancer off a 216 or off an earlier 235 that have a hand-crank fitting on the front of the balancer.

http://www.chevsofthe40s.com/detail/13746/Chevrolet_HAND_CRANK_MANUAL_START_HARDENED_STEEL.html

Sorry the truck is a 1948, 4100 series Liftmaster (emblem on the hood) with a factory 235 engine. It does not say Thriftmaster on the motor, and it is outfitted with the hand-crank fitting on the balancer. I want a hand-crank to turn the motor to adjust the valves.

Look thru this album (3pages) Curt, there are dimensions and pictures of how to make your crank. All you need is a three foot length of 3/4" round stock and a dowel pin.
http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/accessories&page=all
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

801curt,

Can you post a photo of the emblem on the hood? The 4100 series might have a non-GM body.

Can you post a photo of your truck?

Denny's instructions should be excellent for making a crank. The Chevs of the 40s crank (the link I posted above) should also work fine.

You might be able to turn the engine, to adjust the valves, by simply putting the engine into neutral and turning the fan belt (and/or) the harmonic balancer by hand.

Denny did you ever crank yours over and start it? It must take some Popeye arms.

The old man used to start "make and breaks" marine engines by hand, sometimes they would kick back and break your arm.

Nope, never had the guts or upper body strenght to start it. I use the crank when I'm adjusting the valves or setting the initial timing. But as Tim pointed out, you can also turn it with the fan as long as the belts aren't slipping. I can turn mine and the short block was just rebuilt, bored, new pistons and all, and the engine hasn't been started yet so it's pretty tight.
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

A good 1/2 breaker bar and appropriate 6 point socket will do the trick as well.

6-point socket?
To turn which bolt (on a stock 216/235 and most 261s)?

I'm not positive about the years, but after Chevrolet quit putting the hand crank fitting on the balancer, the balancers had a nearly-square hole that would accept a 3/4" square drive breaker bar or ratchet. These could slip in between the radiator and the balancer, and it made it quite easy to turn an engine. I still have the balancer with that fitting that came on my 1953 235. I recall using the method on several engines when I was working as a mechanic in the fifties and sixties. I just went out to my shop and looked at the balancers on two later 261s (post 1958s) and they do not have the square hole. The last time that I built a 261 in 2006 I tapped the crankshaft snout for an ARP 1-1/8" cap screw. This makes it easy to rotate the engine, with all of the spark plugs in and 11:1 compression. I also used to use a scissors screw jack handle to rotate my 1948 216 back in 1955.

Hoyt

Nope, ½” don’t get it:
http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/image/136343469/large
Yep, 3/4” do get it:
http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/image/136343490/large
This is a ’54, 235 damper.
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

Thanks, Hoyt & Denny,

3/4" male square drive fits my 1954 harmonic balancer.

The original crank pulley had a 45 degree slot so that it would kick out the crank handle on start up...

if you try to use a speed handle or something else you will have a

dangerous whirling Dervish that will seriously hurt some one if you use it to start the engine....Ok to roll her over for valve adjustments or setting points...

Denny, did you cold bend the crank or use heat? I need to make one of those!! Thanks, Ken

I don't think anyone is advocating starting one of these with a 3/4" drive breaker bar Dave, at least lets hope not. Most of us aren't man enough to hand crank a Stovebolt anyway.


Yes Casey, heat or else you won't get a nice tight bend.

Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

Denny,
Thanks for posting crank photos. Are the dimensions close to the original style crank? Also, a stupid question. Is the hand crank bracket in your pictures for crank stowage? Or does it mount behind the grille to support the crank when you're starting the engine?
Thanks,
Dave Evans
Wheaton,IL

Yes those dims should be quite close to the original cranks. The bracket mounts to the center bolt that supports the center of the gravel pan. I believe those brackets are avalable from some of the vendors like Chevs of the 40's but kind of pricy. If you have a drill and file you can make your own by cutting out a pattern from cardboard to get the fit right.

Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

Got my 3/4" steel rod today, and marked it with approx. dim., and it sure looks like it might hit the bumper!! No way to know if my bumper is in correct position, and I can tell brackets are slightly bent. May have to fudge 3/4" or so for the first bend, making throw or handle slightly shorter, but shouldn't be a problem. Never bent anything this thick before, so it's a learning experience. Seems to be a lot of interest, so I'll keep everyone posted.

Plenty of room on the stock AD front end Casey. Maintain the longer dimension by making the first bent on it and keep the bends tight but not so tight you tear the metal making the bend.
That way if you're off a bit on the dimensions it will only show up in the handle being a scoch to short.
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

Thanks Denny. I just finished it. Heated it to cherry red at the bends and it was easy.

52-3100, did you bent it in a vice once you got it red? Or some other way...Thanks.

40casey,

I clamped it in a bench vise, heated it quickly to cherry red with oxy-acetylene torch exactly where I wanted the bend, and bent it. When I bent it, I slipped a piece of 3/4 conduit over the end to be bent so it wouldn't bend in an arc. It ended up perfect.

Dave Evans
52_3100

Glad it work out fur ya Dave, a few buck at the hardware store and a few minutes in the shop and ya just saved your self fifty bucks.

Denny G

Built hand crank per Denny’s photos, thanks Denny.I did use a 5/16” dowel, better fit on my balancer.
Very difficult to turn engine, small handle displacement does not give you much torque.
So yesterday got a 1/2” drive 3/4” socket. Drilled 3/4” round stock for the 5/16” pin, welded to socket. Easy turn in shop now.
See flicker link.

I’m a bit confused. Did you cut the handle off of the 3/4” round stock and weld the 3/4” socket in its place or did you fabricate a whole new adaptor to use with 1/2” drive extensions?

Click the link in Mikeybakken's signature for a picture of the adapter he built. It'll become very clear.

Very clear Kevin, thanks!