The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline U joint lock clips

We had to remove the three-speed transmission from my daughter's 53 (second gear kept getting jammed, some gears were worn, so it's in the shop right now) Upon unbolting the U joint assembly we noticed:
1.-One of the bolts wasn't there
2.- There were not lock clips.
We haven't driven the truck much since it was purchased, but there's no telling how long the PO drove it like that.
The U joint doesn't show any damage, though.
My question is:
Could grade eight lock washers be used instead of the lock clips? The reason I am asking is that I have read some posts from members commenting on the substandard quality of the lock clips and bolts offered by some vendors.
Thanks, members!
Charlie

Is this truck a 1/2 ton Chevy with enclosed torque tube.

It is.

I just recently replaced my u-joint and the way to do this is use
locking clips.The clips are kind of thin metal but they will keep the bolt from backing out.

Here is a link to a picture.
http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/1929_54chevyparts/05/355.HTM

The passenger car uses the same set-up.

You can get them from this place.They mite be new old stock
http://www.nwtparts.com/ ask for John

I just took my U joint off not more than an hour ago. It is also the enclosed torque tube. I had the thin locking tabs that bend up against the small bolts. I'm not sure how often they can be re-used before they should be discarded but I intend to put them back on when the tranny goes back in.

I do not recall seeing any problems with u-joint lock clips being posted; however, I have received excellent quality lock clips (and bolts) from Classic Parts, Jim Carters, and Chevs of the 40s.

I have re-used the clips but if any of the tangs break or crack, I replace the clip. I have reused the special bolts many times.

Thanks, 1953 Panel and tclederman.
I will be ordering a set of clips from Jim Carter.

Another option is to use blue LocTite and forget about the clips. A properly-torqued bolt doesn't need the locking clips anyway, as they don't offer anywhere near the holding power of the right grade of bolt, tightened to the right torque specification. LocTite just adds a little security to the assembly.
Jerry

Thanks, Hotrod. That makes sense. Now, if you don't mind, another question: What's the proper torque on these bolts?

Charlie

Charlie

I was looking for the same torque spec and I talked to few seasoned pro's and looked at couple shop manuals. This is what I found out.

Pro One said tighten the bolts up snug and another 1/8" more to line-up flat side of bolt head to locking plate tang, then bend one tang up and save the other tang for future repair. All you need is one tang to lock bolt.

Pro Two said tighten the bolts up snug and another 1/8" more to line-up flat side of bolt head to locking plate tang, then bend both tangs up to lock bolt.

1954 Chev truck shop manual says, tighten cap screws (another name for bolts) securely.
link: under assembly
http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1954truck/54ctsm0449.html

1949-53 Chevy passenger car shop manual, says tighten cap screws to 20-25 ft.lbs. torque.
link: under assembly
http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1949_53/04rear/4_16.HTM

The passenger car uses the same u-joint as truck.
Both manuals note to use new locking plates and bend both tangs.

Thanks

Thanks, Jorb.
I think I am going to go by the specs from your second link.
Besides, bending both tangs is safer than just one.
Did you notice that on the first link (1954 Chevy truck) it shows lock washers for the 4 bolts instead of the locking plates?
Funny thing, none of our local parts stores and hardware stores have the correct size (grade 8) bolts and lock washers needed for the U-joint.
Jim Carter has the bolts, though.
Greetings from Brownwood, Texas.
Charlie

Yes, the photo in the Truck Shop Manual shows lock washers in the illustration but (as noted by jorb) on the next page advises to "NOTE: Use new lock plates under cap screws and bends tangs up to lock cap screws after assembly."

If you have ever seen the inside of a torque-tube u-joint bell after a supposedly properly-torqued cap-crews is used without a properly tanged lock plate, you'd use a lock plate (any maybe overkill with LOCTITE).

I (and my professional friends) have unsuccessfully tried to use a torque-wrench (various sizes) on the cap screws on these u-joint assembles; but, the technique from jorb's two pros, using lock-plates, keeps me from having bad dreams about the u-joint coming loose (I have had such dreams over the years).

Ok, now I get it.
Thanks, tclederman.
You see, I know very little about mechanical work. But to me working on these old trucks is just as much fun as driving them, sweat and beeding knuckles notwithstanding.
That's why I am trying to gather as much professional advice and information as I can get. And trying also to get to know this rust bucket inside out, or at least, to know about it as much as possible.
As always, I appreciate and welcome any advice you guys can give me.
Charlie

Here's another trick that works where a torque wrench either isn't available, or there's just no room to use one:

Turn the bolt until all the slack is taken out between the parts, and the bolt stops turning freely. It's pretty easy to feel when all the slack is taken up. Then turn the bolt one more flat (1/6 turn). Since the parts aren't getting any closer together, the bolt must stretch for the thread to keep turning. 1/6 of a turn puts about the right amount of stretch on the bolt, no matter what diameter bolt you're working with, and it's easy to get a good estimate by watching the hexagon head, or even marking the area beside the corner of one of the flats with a sharpie.
Jerry