The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk Front Leaf Springs, 37 Chevy 1/2 Ton

The previous owner removed 3 leaves on the front springs (I'm guessing because there are only 5 leaves now) and with the heavier 307 Chevy engine, the leaves are slightly arched in the wrong direction. I found some leaf springs on what's probably a 47-54 (may never know). Anyone know what, other than the distance between shackles, do I need to look for to ensure they'll fit my 37?

Check the width of each leaf and the length. You don't want to duplicate lengths.
Also, while you are at it, put teflon strips between each leaf and smooth up the ride.

I am running mine with only five leafs. I kept the two longest then removed every other one and installed the teflon strips. It rides much this way then with a full stack of leafs. The arch is almost flat with a new set, mine are new, and only slightly arched with five removed. They never will be curved like the rears or a modern spring, they were designed as a flat spring.

Joe

Do either of you think there's any danger in the fact that my leaves are beyond flat and arched slightly downward?

Mike, if they are arched downward it sounds as if they have "given up". You can try it and see how it rides but keep an eye on them for one to crack.

...as a foot note. Some folks may say to have them "re-arched" but in all my reading and listening having them re-arched does not last and is therefore a waste of money. I cannot personally attest to that either way but it makes sense. I watched a video not long ago on a "spring company" and the info was incredible. I wish I had saved the link.

I had front springs re-arched on a '38 coupe I had back in 1980. Drove it for a few years with no problems, but wonder what it would be doing by now????????

They never were arched up, they are designed to be flat. Here's what the 1937 Chevrolet Engineering manual says about front springs. This manual compares to old '36 chevrolets to the new and improved '37s.

" The front springs on the HALF TON truck are revised to make them of the "flat spring under design load" type, thus eliminating the camber and contributing to improved steering geometry by reducing to a minimum the "walk" (fore and aft motion) of attached parts. "

"The changes are confined to the first and second leaves of the spring. The rear eye is of the Berlin type, the horizontal centerline being approximately on the centerline of the first spring leaf. The second leaf is extended to wrap the new eye partially to give it stronger support. By this means, greater safety is made available in case the main leaf breaks near the rear eye. Additional improvement in the steering geometry is secured by reducing the slope of the spring."

Joe

Joe H,
Please take a look at the attached photo and see if you thing I'm too "over arched" downward.
Facebook Leaf Spring Photo
Thanks,
Mike

I am not a member of faceboook.

Joe

Joe,
I've uploaded the photo to Photobucket http://s1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee363/37chevy1/?action=view&current=FrontLeafSpring2.jpg , let me know if you can see this one. If not, I may need to go back and check out the Stovebolt IT Shortbus again.
Thanks,
Mike

That looks a little over arched, but it could just be the picture angle. How close is the bump stop from the frame? I will get out in the garage to night and get you a picture of mine if I can figure out my new computer and camera settings.

Joe

Joe,
There's about a 1/2 inch (1 cm) between the top of the bumpstop and the bottom of the frame. The top of the axle I beam is about 9 3/4 inches above the ground and the center of the front shackle's bolt is about a half inch lower at 9 1/4 inches.
Mike

I may be wrong, but I thought that the original straight six is heavier than the small block.

John,
Good question; I don't know. I just assumed that if the springs were over-arched it must be because of a heavier engine. Maybe the automatic transmission is heavier than the old manual one. Whatever the reason, I'm bummed that I've probably got to spend more money to add/replace leaves.
Mike

Boy, those look WAY bad, and would bottom out on the frame if a pothole was even in view !!!. I would look at new springs, and, as mentioned, your steering geometry is screwed up with your current setup. Let us know what you do, we all learn from this forum

Yes I was going to respond too. The original 37 6 cyl is a Heavy old pig that weighs as much as a Big block Chevy.

I finally took my truck to a shop that fabricates leaf springs, but the tech didn't have info on the arching for a 37 1/2 ton's front and rear leaves. I provided him the specs (from the GM Heritage center) but he said it was still not the info he needed; I'm sure he can figure something out on his own but I'd like to give him something definitive.

Any idea where I can find "arching" info?

Thanks,
Mike

Alvin,
I did what you said and the guy at Eaton was indeed very helpful. He knew without having to look it up that the "free arch" for a 37 1/2 ton was 2” on the front and 6 ½” on the rear. I passed that on to the shop that has my truck...couldn't talk to the tech at the time but I hope it's what he needed.
Thanks,
Mike

Its nice to know there are still some good guys out there that will help without asking whats in our wallet first.
Thats good info to know. Thanks for the reply.