The Stovebolt.com Forums Home | Tech Tips | Gallery | FAQ | Events | Features | Search
9 - 11 Memorials

Searching the Site - a click away
click here to search
New here ??? Where to start?
Click on image for the lowdown. Where do I go around here?
====
Who's Online Now
5 members (Hawkman, Tom McGrath, 5 Window 9434, FAST55, dt235sd), 71 guests, and 0 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums66
Topics128,043
Posts1,055,615
Members48,426
Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026
Step-by-step instructions for pictures in the forums
Brad Allen's photos

AD Chevy Trucks

Pictures galore
Over 6,000 pictures

Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips.

Check them out!

Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!

Big Thanks!

THANKS!

For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for

over 30 years!

and not clogged down
with Ads!


Again, thanks!

Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
#756435 06/21/2011 8:05 PM
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 170
D
'Bolter
'Bolter
D Offline
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 170
Here's a tale of what not to do. I ordered new front and rear brake drums for my brake job. Rears went on no problems. I "assumed" that the old front drums would slide off the front hubs. Nope - so I got the bright idea to pound the hub bolts down with a heavy hammer to remove the hub. Pound, pound, pound and not a bit of movement - all I succeeded in doing was flaring the top of the bolt. I now have to use a hex die to fix the bolts! DUMB!

Daves46pu #756445 06/21/2011 8:43 PM
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 8,351
L
'Bolter
'Bolter
L Offline
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 8,351
By "hub bolts", do you mean the wheel studs? In ant case, if you damaged them enough to flare the ends, the best bet would be to replace them, as it is difficult to get the threads repaired if the metal has been distorted that much. replacement is cheap insurance against part failure, especially when dealing with anything involving the wheels and brakes.


Bill Burmeister
LONGBOX55 #756446 06/21/2011 8:45 PM
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,878
G
.
.
G Offline
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,878
When you press them out support the back side with a piece of pipe around the head of the stud.

Grigg #756451 06/21/2011 9:05 PM
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 8,597
W
Riding in the Passing Lane
Riding in the Passing Lane
W Offline
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 8,597
The original front drums are held on with 3 rivets. Did you cut them off if they were still there?


They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing.
1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne Super
In the Gallery Forum
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 170
D
'Bolter
'Bolter
D Offline
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 170
Thanks for the responses! I originally cleaned the outside surface of the hubs but don't see any rivet heads. I'm assuming they go front to back? I'll clean the inside of the drums tonight to see if I can spot them on the inside. (There was lots of crud in the inside - I'm surprised the truck ever stopped). Once I spot them - then I just drill them out?
(PS They sent new hub bolts with the drums so thats one bit of good news).

I have to say as frustrating as my mistakes are, I like doing the work myself. Sounds dopy but I feel I have more of a right to own the truck.

Daves46pu #756461 06/21/2011 9:45 PM
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 457
4
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
4 Offline
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 457
That, Dave, is the JOY part of owning a stovebolt. We all make mistakes, but we learn a lot of stuff we can share with others!


1940 Chevy 1/2 ton pickup "KC"
A day without sunshine is like, well, ..... dark!
40casey #756492 06/21/2011 10:59 PM
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 170
D
'Bolter
'Bolter
D Offline
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 170
Just looked at Jimmie V's '54 bearings thread. The was a design change somewhere between 46 and 54. In Jimmie's thread, there is a schematic showing the 54's hubs are inside the brake drum and with rivets. My 46 shop manual shows the hubs outside the drum without rivets. Now it makes sense why I don't see rivets. The good news is my eyes aren't as bad as I feared. The bad news is my magic bullet to drill out the rivets is now not an option (rats). Am I back to attempting to pound the wheel studs back thru the drum -or- is this something for a brake shop to press them out?

Daves46pu #756497 06/21/2011 11:19 PM
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269

Dave,

I do not know what the parts in 46 look like. Do you have access to both sides of the wheel stud?

I have used a press like this one to easily/safely remove rear wheel studs on 47-54 1/2 ton trucks.

tclederman #756504 06/21/2011 11:37 PM
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 170
D
'Bolter
'Bolter
D Offline
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 170
TC, that looks like it may work. I just measured the distance from the outside rim of the drum to the center of the stud. It is 3 1/2 inches - is that press deep enough? Couldn't tell from the Harbor Freight picture how deep it was. Thanks!

Daves46pu #756561 06/22/2011 2:55 AM
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 29,763
H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
H Offline
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 29,763
Some wheel studs are swaged to hold the brake drum in place, and require a special cutter to remove the expanded part of the stud before pressing them out of the hub.
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!

Moderated by  Gdads51 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 8.0.0