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I am currently in the process of getting my 1959 235 12 volt ready for its new home in my 37 1/2 ton. The original motor was a 216 6 volt. I have a few questions with what I need to use from the 216 to make things work out.
I am planning on keeping the 235 a 12 volt so I am thinking I need to keep the clutch, fly wheel and starter from the 235 but need to use the bell housing from the 216 for my peddles to work correctly. Will this work out?
Thanks,
Charlie

You'll also need to consider the clutch disc splines and the pilot bushing in the end of the crankshaft, whether or not they're compatible with the crash box transmission. I believe there's no problem there, but double-check to make sure you're not building in a fit problem.
Jerry

Do a search on water pump adapter to use the older 216 pump on your later engine. This has ben hashed over many times. Readup on it and then ask questions. You might also have a slight problem with the later model exhaust dump and steering box.

If you want to use the 59 flywheel and clutch parts you will need a 38 to 46 bellhousing and linkage unless you modify the 37 clutch fork to work with the later throw out bearing,38 is the first year of the modern clutch and the 38 to 46 bellhousings will work with the 37 pedal assembly.

Jeff, you bring up something I have wanted to check out. I know 1938 started with the ball bearing throw-out bearing.
I know he would need a 1938 or later clutch fork.
But is the ball for the fork pivot in the wrong place on a 37 bell housing to use a 38 fork?

If I go with the 37 flywheel, clutch parts and bellhousing, do I need to use the 6 volt starter that was with them or can I use the 12 volt that came with the 59? I'm trying to make this work with what I have for this driving season and maybe tackle some upgrades during the winter months.

1937 uses a four bolt flywheel so it will not fit the 235 crank.
The only flywheels that fit a 235 are 1942-62.
You can use the flywheel and clutch from your 59 as long as you use a 12 volt starter.

I apologize I should have stated that the 216 is a 1952 216 NOT a 1937.

If the engine is a 1952 you can use everything you have on the 235.

The ball for the fork is closer to the center then on the 37 bell then the 38 to 46 and if you use the later fork in a 37 bellhousing the fork will be over center on the throw out bearing and not work too good,even though his motor is a 52 it would still be better to get the 38 to 46 clutch parts for easier parts availability.

I'm assuming he must already have a 38-46 bell housing if he has a 52 engine.

If its a car bellhousing it wont work.

How do I find out if its a car bellhousing?

A car bellhousing would not have the mounting holes for the master cylinder mount on it.
On trucks the master cylinder bracket, which also holds the brake and clutch pedals, mounts to the side of the trans and the back of the bellhousing.

I think the mounting for the rear mounts are different too.

I have the truck bellhousing

So I should be able to use the clutch, flywheel and bell housing from the 1952 216 on the 235....is that correct? My other question is does it make a difference which fly wheel I use if I want to convert to 12 volt?

The 235 is 12 volt and the 216 is 6 volt

Thanks!!

I am getting a little confused here,so does your 37 presently have a 52 216 and you are wanting to go to a later 235. If thats the case then use your existing bellhousing,flywheel,clutch parts and starter,your existing starter will work with 12 volts if not abused.

Jeff,
That is exactly what I want to do!!!

THANKS!!!

If its hooked up to the original trans you most likely have the original bellhousing which will work good with the 37 clutch parts if they are still being used,if it has the original clutch parts and want to use the 38 and up clutch parts you can with the 37 fork but will need to weld on fingers to use with the newer throw out bearing. I would recommend using the 38 and up clutch parts since they will be cheaper and easier to find and would recommend finding a 38 to 46 bellhousing,pedal and linkage so it will work better with the later clutch parts and will need to come off a 1/2 ton since I think there are some difference in the 3/4 and up with the pedal and master cylinder mounting.

Jeff,
Here are the parts I have from both the 216 and the 235.

1959 235 http://i543.photobucket.com/albums/gg447/Seykoras/TruckParts002.jpg

1952 216 http://i543.photobucket.com/albums/gg447/Seykoras/TruckParts001.jpg

I would assume that the clutch parts and trans are not 37. I believe they came with the "52" 216.

If the clutch worked good with the 216 then use the 216 bellhousing and clutch linkage and fork with the 59 flywheel,pressure plate,disc and throw out bearing. It looks like you have a 38 to 46 bellhousing and clutch linkage but the only difference between a 37 and 38 to 46 bellhousing is where the hole is for the fork ball. When I still had the original trans and rear end in my 37 with the 57 235 I had a 38 to 46 bellhousing,clutch pedal and linkage with the 57 flywheel,pressure plate,disc and throw out bearing.

I have to say it looks like a 37 truck bellhousing. Starting in 38 the starter linkage mounts on both sides, not in the middle and pass side like the one pictured.

Dave,
So the bellhousing won't work?

I could not get the 37 bellhousing to work correctly with a 38 and up clutch fork since the hole for the ball was closer to the input shaft causing the fork to go over center on the throw out bearing and when everything heated up the clutch would not want to work,post some pics of the clutch pedal and linkage you have so I will know what you have and what you will need to get. If you cant get a 38 to 46 bellhousing you can make the 37 pedal,linkage and fork work by welding some fingers on the 37 fork to work with the later throw out bearing,I done that originally with my 37 untill I found a 41 in a junkyard that donated its bellhousing and related linkage parts and got changed again when I installed the t-5.

I'm with Jeff.

I'm a little confused. you said in an earlier post, if this is true any modification must have been done in the past if it was working with the 52 engine.

I will get pictures on soon of what I am working with and what I am thinking of doing.
Dave your right about it all working fine with the 1952 216 and I guess that is also where I am confused.
How can I tell for sure the year of the bellhousing? Would the casting numbers help if I posted them?

Thanks,
Charlie

There should be a date code in the area where the trans bolts to the bellhousing and cant remember where the casting number is.

Numbers from the bellhousing off the 216.....E287...838533

Numbers from the bellhousing off the 235.....C165...3702831

E=May
28th day
7=1937
GM parts book shows 838533 as 1937 truck only.

I don't show the 3702831.

I'm sorry if I seem to be asking the same question over and over but I am in the learning process of all of this and want to do it once...the right way.

Why can't I use the 216 bell housing, clutch fork and throw out bearing with the 235 flywheel and clutch parts. If it all fits on the 235 whats the issue?

Charlie

I also seem to be giving the same answer over and over.
If it worked on the 216 it will work on the 235.
Any conversion work on the clutch fork and starter linkage must have been done in the past.
I would need to see pictures to tell you how it was done.

I apologize Dave.
This is what came off the 216.

http://i543.photobucket.com/albums/gg447/Seykoras/TruckBellhousing007.jpg

http://i543.photobucket.com/albums/gg447/Seykoras/TruckBellhousing006.jpg

http://i543.photobucket.com/albums/gg447/Seykoras/TruckBellhousing005.jpg

http://i543.photobucket.com/albums/gg447/Seykoras/TruckBellhousing004.jpg

http://i543.photobucket.com/albums/gg447/Seykoras/TruckBellhousing003.jpg

http://i543.photobucket.com/albums/gg447/Seykoras/TruckBellhousing002.jpg

http://i543.photobucket.com/albums/gg447/Seykoras/TruckBellhousing001.jpg

From what I see it looks like it still has the 37 clutch pedal and you have all the linkage parts I originally put on my 37 and I had problems,the later clutch fork will put the fingers over center on the throw out bearing and it just wont work right. If you want to retain the 37 bellhousing you will need to come up with a 37 clutch fork and weld some fingers on it so it will work with the later throw out bearing,if I still had the one I modified I would give it to you but its been sold. It would be better if you came up with a 38 to 46 bellhousing,clutch pedal and linkage with the fork and you should be good.

I see someone made up a starter link for that problem.
I can see in the pic that the pins that the throw-out bearing pivots on are not centered in the opening.
I just compared a 37 fork with a 38-46 fork and the 38-46 fork is 3/8" longer from the pivot ball to the bearing pivot pins.
The 37 fork is also 3/8" shorter from the pivot ball out to the link.
The pivot ball is also 1/4" closer to the center hole than a 38-46.
This looks like your 38-46 fork with your 37 bellhousing would move the bearing more than intended.
I know this is not an ideal setup but if you keep plenty of pedal free play you should not have the over center problem Jeff talks about.
It would be best to find a 1938-46 truck bellhousing.

I guess I will try and find a 38-46 bellhousing,clutch pedal, linkage and fork and than use the flywheel and clutch parts that came with the 235.

Doing that will be the best as when using the modified 37 fork I had to adjust where there was almost no free play to get the clutch to disengage,I sold the 41 bellhousing I had along with the modified fork when I bought the modified 48 to 53 Bellhousing from Jim Carter to install the T-5. If you cant find any of the parts there is a yard close to me that had the remains of a 41-6 suburban and I could check it out.

Jeff,
That would be much appreciated!!
THANKS!!!
Charlie

I am planning on getting the adapter plate for the water pump and will use the 216 pump but my issue is with the pulley width. The 216 pump as a wide pulley and the 235 harmonic balancer has a narrow pulley. Can I use the 216 harmonic balancer with the 235 or do I need to use the 235 harmonic balancer and get a wide width pulley?