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#75303 03/24/2007 2:00 AM
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 172
S
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 172
According to the FLAPS they can turn my drum (yea!! prices for new were between $40-$86). But they want me to take out all the bearings.

This is my hub/drum
http://www.voiceinthewild.com/graphics/hub_drum.jpg

It looks, on the inside, like the part with the lugs can be seperated from the drum. And there is this cone shaped thing inside with some bearings in it. (The bearings on outside fell out when I pulled the drum.)

So, now hard is it to pull the inside bearings and replace them? Do they need to be pressed/hammered into place?

Can I take off that cone piece? Is there any need to take it off?

Dave


1965 Chevy C-30 1-Ton
"Work like you don't need the money. Love like you've never been hurt. Dance like nobody's watching."
#75304 03/24/2007 2:49 AM
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 5,708
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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Posts: 5,708
sablesurfer,

Did you show your drums to the folks who are going to turn them? They are pretty humongous. The inner wheel seal holds the inner bearing in the hub. With the drum/hub laying on the ground and the dust cap and outer bearing removed, you can knock the inner bearing AND seal out by smacking the inner bearing with a brass drift, or even a hardwood stick.

The seal and bearing will fall out on the ground underneath the brake drum. Leave the races (cups) in the hub unless you plan on replacing them...the FLAPS will center the hub using these races when they turn the drum (if they can turn this big moose).

I wouldn't try to separate the drum from the hub unless it looks real easy. Your picture indicates these two things might be a real bear to separate. Clean all the grease and crap out of the inner hub before you take it to your FLAPS...they will love you for it.

Before I did anything else, I would take the drums to the store and have them verify they can turn them. They are more 'truck size' then 'car size'. Good luck.

Stuart

#75305 03/24/2007 10:17 AM
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,249
"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,249
Usually, it is best to turn the drum and hub as one unit. Don't seperate them.

#75306 03/24/2007 8:58 PM
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 8,597
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Riding in the Passing Lane
Riding in the Passing Lane
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It,s also a good idea to put the nuts back on upside down. Might even put a flat washer under each. That will keep the drum snug on the hub. They shouldn,t have any problem with the front drums. They are not that large. The rears are a different story.


They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing.
1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne Super
In the Gallery Forum
#75307 03/25/2007 12:17 AM
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 172
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Wrench Fetcher
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O'Reilly's has the drums right now. Supposedly turning them sometime now.

I hammered out the studs on the right wheel, they were too rusty for me to feel comfortable. The left's were better. Ordering the studs will take two days to get from warehouse.

I will also be replacing all the lug nuts to the ones with the tapered ends on them. Funny, but I guess it's oem, three of the wheels have these flat lugs...one has the tapered lugs.

(Anyone want the old lug nuts, they are yours for a beer.)


1965 Chevy C-30 1-Ton
"Work like you don't need the money. Love like you've never been hurt. Dance like nobody's watching."
#75308 03/25/2007 2:59 PM
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 8,597
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Riding in the Passing Lane
Riding in the Passing Lane
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Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 8,597
Dual wheel trucks use nuts that are flat.


They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing.
1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne Super
In the Gallery Forum

Moderated by  Phak1, Woogeroo 

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