The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot '60-'66 Trucks cleaning and storing fuel tanks

Okay, I removed the fuel tank. I used a cut off hose (so there wouldn't be a metal end going into the tank) and ran water through it for a 1/2 hour flushing it out. Then I removed the fuel sending unit while the tank was full of water. I emptied the tank, filled, and flushed again. I've been using low pressure water. I can hear something rattling around in there, probably a small chunk of the corroded sending unit. After I get that chunk flushed out, what should I do?

Do I use some sort of detergent to clean it out better, or let it be with the water flush?

The new sending unit will ship tomorrow, and I'll get a new hose to connect the filler neck tomorrow. BUT, I won't be ready to put the tank back in the truck for at least a month, maybe two. We need to remove the bed, patch the cab corners, etc..... etc... etc...

So, until that time, what is the best and safest way to store the fuel tank? Empty and open? Empty, but with the sending unit and cap back on? Other?

Again, any advice, tips, etc... is appreciated. Thanks!

You need to get the moisture out of the tank to keep it from rusting. I'd add a pint of WD-40 to the tank and slosh it around real good. Leave it in the tank until you are ready to install it and then dump it out.

If your tank had rust in it, now would be a good time to coat the inside and give it plenty of time to cure.

Thanks. I have just a couple of maybe dumb questions:

Does WD-40 come in a liquid? I thought it was just a spray thing.

And coat with the WD-40, or something else?

I don't think it had rust in it, but now is a good time to give it a once over. Also, I had heard that dumping a bunch of rubbing alcohol in it would do the same thing (remove the moisture). Any thoughts on that?

I'm still not sure whether I should store it with the filler neck and sending port open, or sealed off. If open, I think I'll put some sort of cheese cloth over it so the flying and creepy-crawly things don't move in. :-)

http://www.uline.com/BL_8101/WD-40?pricode=wf327&gclid=CIe26L_fo6kCFcxj2godkxedtQ

Above is a link for the liquid. Rubbing alcohol will dry it out but leave the metal exposed to moisture again. WD40 will leave a light coating on the surface. (WD40 = water displacement formula 40)

I would just stuff a rag in the opening to keep unwanted dust and bugs out.

JohnT, that gallon can of WD-40 is cool! Never seen one before. Thanks for the link and all your help!

I need to update, and then pose another question or two. I syphoned the fuel out of the tank in the '61 and put it into my '84. I had been topping off the tank in the '61 every winter and putting fuel additive in it, but truth be told it's had so few miles on it that most of the fuel was probably 4-5 years old. It looked good going through the clear hose into the '84, BUT ... !! It really did a number on my poor '84. It croaked on my way home the other day, even after switching back to the tank with fresh gas after the first "hiccup".

I replaced the fuel filter and blew out the lines connecting it to the carb and the main steel line. Then I took the top off my carb, cleaned out the bowls, injectors, needles, etc... NOTE: IT WAS FILLED WITH RUST/BROWN COLORED CRUD. Reassembled it, sprayed more carb cleaner, and it fired right up. Purred like a kitten. Today on my way to work and back, it ran, but ran rough. I think I might need to repeat yesterday's cleaning.

Now, I go back to the fuel tank that had the bad gas sitting in it for 5 years. Peering into it, it looks okay, but I really can't see much. Should I use a detergent and then WD-40.

Also, I'm thinking of concentrating on the fuel delivery system for a while. Should I get a pre-bent fuel line even though the engine is not the original?

Thanks for all your help. This restoration business is totally new to me. It's been a life-long dream of mine, and despite the occasional snafu's, I'm having FUN! Thanks.

Oh the joys of a rusty tank.

On your daily driver, you need to add another finer (smaller pore size) filter after the stock one. Or drop your tank and clean it. Its not good for the valves to have them seating on the fine rust and apparently its working its way there.

On the '61 you need to coat the inside of the tank or bite the bullet and spent the $ for a new tank (less than $200). From what I've read tumbling the tank doesn't work and I've heard mixed comments about the coating. I personally put new in all mine as part of the restoration. I don't like fuel problems.

If you can see the inside of the tank and it looks shiny then you are OK. Dump in a bunch of WD40, shake it up and store it until ready for use. Just don't wait too long to use it. (It's my understanding that the secret ingredient in WD40 is fish oil. Whatever. It's good stuff. Can also be used as a manley cologne.) If the inside of the tank looks rusty, replace it with a new tank. As you discovered, rust will make it's way into your fuel system and you will have a breakdown. Not fun. If you can't see the inside of the tank, I would replace it. Also, install an extra fuel filter somewhere in the line that filters down to say 9 microns. (Most filters only work on big chunks). I contacted Puralator and spoke with an engineer. In India. It was a tedius conversation. Don't do it unless you have a high tolerance for frustration. The filter I ended up with is an F64711 that is designed for a later model vehicle but had nipples that would accomodate sections of fuel hose and the filter is hidden so no one will ever know you put something modern on your truck. You could possibly find a filter from Summit that filters down to that level but I like being able to just grab a filter off the shelf at the local Napa auto parts.

Thanks for the prompt replies. I will definitely be installing a secondary fuel filter - GREAT idea! And, I think I'll buy a new tank. I only want to do this fuel system once if possible, so I'll do it right the first time.

Finally got the bad fuel to syphon out of the '84. Hopefully that and some new fuel with additive will help, too.