The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts Got the head off. Rust in one of the cylinders.

I didn't have any luck freeing up the engine by trying to turn the flywheel. so, i took the advice i got here and removed the head. I found rust in, (what i believe to be), the number 1 cylinder. I have marvel oil sitting in all the cylinders now. What is the best method for cleaning this cylinder? And, can i use a wire wheel on my drill to clean the surface of the head? also, the exhaust valve for the affected cylinder will have to be replaced. Where do i get one, and how do i install it? All other valves were clean, and intact. I have posted new pictures of my powder coated wheels, new tires, the rust in the cylinder, and some 18 foot tongue and groove i got a great deal on for the bed.

All advice, and/or comments will be appreciated.

Once you get it to turn, there are two things to do. First, in all likelhood, there will be a ridge at the top of the cylinder. You will be able to feel it by running your finger along the cylinder wall. This has to be cut down by using a ridge reamer. I think these can be rented. It is a hand tool that fits inside the cylinder and you turn it with a wrench to cut the ridge.

Next get a cylinder hone, attach it to a drill and using some oil hone the cylinder.

I would recommend getting some more detailed instructions then just what I have told you, but this will clean things up for a start. It is also one of the first steps in rebuilding your engine.

Repairing your valves is another adventure as well, requiring a few rentened or borrowed tools for a simple 1 valve replacement. However, usually more than 1 valve is bad or close to it, so you should take the entire head apart and check them all and the head for cracks and warpage.

Many of the trucks here have their original engines replaced with a newer engine. You may have to decide between rebuilding your original engine and upgrading to a running newer stovebolt.

Mike

hey mike, thanx for taking the time to help me out. i am going to call a to z rental and see about the ridge reamer, and the cylinder hone. also, i'm taking the head to a machinist who will magnaflux, install the new valve, and mill the head if necessary. the cylinder walls are cleaning up nicely. however, i have not got the engine "freed up" yet. i have just graduated to tapping the pistons with a block of wood.

if the engine turns out to be on it's last leg after cleaning up the head and cylinders i will start shopping for a full oil pressure, running, 235, 250, or 263. on another note, what are pieces coming out of the block called that the push rods sit into. one looks slightly raised compared to the rest. again, thanx for your help.

~mare

also, i'm on my 2nd golden retriever myself. he's part of the family. they don't make a better dog. and, really like your 46 panel. one day i would like to get one. i had a 46 1.5 ton about 30 years ago. that's why i jumped on this truck when i found it. the art deco years are my absolute favorites. in fact, if i had my druthers, i would be driving a fully restored 41 through 46 panel just like yours. one day maybe.

~marc

Marc,

I am not sure what dog picture you saw, but I am on 3 and 4. I usually take them with me in the Panel, weather permitting. When I leave them,they both sit there and look like they just drove up. I was coming out of a place and heard a kid telling his Mother, that dog didn't drive that truck did he?

As far as the engine goes, don't tap too hard with the block of wood, you don't want to break the piston lands and grooves. Have you taken the pan off and loosend the bearing caps? I have not freed up an engine myself, but I am thinking if the pistons move at all, it is the crank that is most likely frozen. I have heard on here before that it may take a couple weeks for solvent to soak down and free up the rings.

Here is a Panel on E-Bay that may be of interest and it is in your part of the world. You may be finding out that after you get a Stovebolt, they begin to attract others.


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chev...itemZ290572288976QQptZUSQ5fCarsQ5fTrucks

Marc,

I had another thought for you. While you have your engine out, it would be a good idea to upgrade to an SM 420 transmission. The old crash box and double clutching got old in a hurry for me. It is not a difficult upgrade and if you upgrade your engine you may be able to find an engine, bell housing and transmission all together. The biggest problems are bolting your pedals to a newer bell housing and shortening the intermediate drive shaft and enlarging the hole in the floor plan.

hey mike, as it turns out, my engine is not salvageable. once the rust was removed, i discovered significant pitting in the number one cylinder as well as deep pits in the deck near that cylinder. but, i found a 1954 235ci for $250. supposedly, it ran when it was taken out of the truck when he upgraded to a v8. anyway, it's full oil pressure, although it still has the mechanical lifters. i'm doing this on a shoe string budget so it will suffice. i wrote down the type of transmission you referenced. what year truck does the sm 420 come out of? i will research it. thanx again for your input. one day i hope to have a semi hot rod 41-46 panel. marc

Marc,

The SM 420 is pretty common, it first appeared, (not exactly sure)around the time the AD trucks started in 47 and was in use untill the mid to late 60's. It is a big, heavy almost bullet proof transmission. If you do a search, there is a lot of info on them and check the links section here for Nowak transmissions in Utah. The SM 420 can be found in any number of trucks and junk yards, have great parts availability, and are easy to rebuild. You might even ask the guy you got the engine from if he has one laying around.

Mike