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| | | Forums66 Topics128,080 Posts1,056,063 Members48,433 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Jan 2011 Posts: 138 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jan 2011 Posts: 138 | I opened up the shifter box on the steering column just to see how warn the stuff was today because you have to hold the lever up to make sure second engages. The internals looked good, as did the bushings at the box (I have not checked the ones at the tranny). But now the forks closest to the driver are stuck in the down position.I took the box cover off again and watched that the lower linkage moves good. Any ideas of how to free them up?
Alex 57' 3100 (The Bondo Bandit) Bad rust and worse wiring, but so much fun.
| | | | | Joined: Jul 2001 Posts: 3,887 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Jul 2001 Posts: 3,887 | holding the lever up to insure engaging sounds like adjustment of the rod from the box to the trans - the "clamps" on the levers at the box are adjustable for the length of the rods, one of them isn't moving far enough .... for the fork out of position, you need to have a helper work the lever inside up and down gently while you get the fork back where it belongs - see here, and insure that the spring in there is not broken Bill | | | | | Joined: Jan 2011 Posts: 138 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jan 2011 Posts: 138 | Ok I saw a v shaped apparatus at the top of the rod with a threaded end and a nut on it that would lengthen the rod, I assume that is what you are referring to
Alex 57' 3100 (The Bondo Bandit) Bad rust and worse wiring, but so much fun.
| | | | | Joined: Jul 2001 Posts: 3,887 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Jul 2001 Posts: 3,887 | yes, you can see some here, get things so the trans arms are cleanly in neutral and the shift box arms are parallel when the forks are aligned so the pawl moves freely between them Bill | | | | | Joined: Jan 2011 Posts: 138 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jan 2011 Posts: 138 | I got it unstuck, and am trying to replace the bushings in the arms. What are they called? I cannot find them anywhere...
Alex 57' 3100 (The Bondo Bandit) Bad rust and worse wiring, but so much fun.
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2010 Posts: 35 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Dec 2010 Posts: 35 | My first truck was a 70 C20 with 3 on the tree - it would get stuck like that sometimes when going from fist to second but only it would be in neutral. Many times I had to stop in traffic, get out, open the hood, grab the shift linkage and give it a jerk to free it up. Those were the good old days. | | | | | Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 4,961 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 4,961 | If you make it a habit to move the shifter in the "H" pattern. That will help even if things are worn. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2008 Posts: 1,122 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2008 Posts: 1,122 | My recollection is foggy, but back in the day I recall a company owned '65 truck that would lock in gear, as described. We carried a hammer with us and if needed crawled under the truck and gave the shift linkage a smack or two. When it eventually happened to the boss too, the problem got fixed. I think I recall it was a bad throw out bearing???? I'd forgotten all about that learning experience. Good times!!!!! | | | | | Joined: Jun 2008 Posts: 1,644 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2008 Posts: 1,644 | Saw this thread looking for help and thought I'd post my problem.
My truck has three on the tree and has always been prone to not engaging 2nd gear. Seemed it engaged at the very top of the throw. Sometimes I had to force it a bit to go into gear. So, this afternoon I decided to try and adjust the linkage a bit so it would engage sooner in the throw. I got a friend to sit in the cab and shift from 1st to 2nd so I would know which shift linkage to adjust. I only moved it it about an inch then took it for a short drive to test it out. It is now stuck in 1st gear and I can't get it out. Won't even shift into reverse. Tried pulling the shift rod with a pair of pliers but it wouldn't budge. I drove it in the garage and called it a day.
Any suggestions???
Chuck 1950 Chevy 1/2 ton (all original) 1951 Chevy 1/2 ton (future streetrod) 1941 Chevy coupe 1938 Chevy coupe streetrod | | | | | Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 2,393 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 2,393 | Loosen the shift rods at the box,crawl under the truck and move the trans levers to neutral at the transmission. Readjust the shift rods to neutral at the box and tighten the rods. While at it check to se if the bushings need replacing and that the box has lubrication.
Drew
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2008 Posts: 1,644 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2008 Posts: 1,644 | Thanks Drew, I'll try that but hope I can move the levers. Since I could not move the rod using a pair of pliers I don't know if I'll fare better moving those short transmission levers by hand. Someone wrote that you could use a ball-peen hammer to knock the levers a bit to get them unstuck. I might even have to try that. Good idea about adjusting the rods at the box to the neutral position.
Can you tell me where the two levers go at the neutral position??
Chuck 1950 Chevy 1/2 ton (all original) 1951 Chevy 1/2 ton (future streetrod) 1941 Chevy coupe 1938 Chevy coupe streetrod | | | | | Joined: Jul 2001 Posts: 3,887 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Jul 2001 Posts: 3,887 | Spot - before you break something, take the top off the shift box [4 screws] and you'll find the pawl in there is stuck between the 2 forks - you should be able to work at the levers on the box output and get it unstuck - inside can be cleaned out and regreased, then adjust the rod length/position - you're having a common problem, learn how the setup works Bill | | | | | Joined: Jun 2008 Posts: 1,644 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2008 Posts: 1,644 | Thanks Bill. I studied your pics the other night after my shifter locked up. I'll try taking off the box top and look inside to see if I can free it up.
Thanks for your input. I was really frustrated with myself after I locked up the darn thing trying to fix it!!
Chuck
Chuck 1950 Chevy 1/2 ton (all original) 1951 Chevy 1/2 ton (future streetrod) 1941 Chevy coupe 1938 Chevy coupe streetrod | | | | | Joined: Jun 2008 Posts: 1,644 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2008 Posts: 1,644 | Drew and Bill, I loosened the rod connections at the shift box then removed the box top and aligned the forks with the pawl. Put the top back on then moved the 1st-reverse rod to neutral. Tightened the connector and crossed my fingers. To my surprise it shifted into all gears. It was a little coarse at first but then it started getting smoother. At first it also didn't have that "springy feeling" when it went from 1st into 2nd and I had to force it a bit, but even that leveled out after a bit. It's still not perfect but it's not stuck any more.
Thanks everyone for the tips.
Chuck 1950 Chevy 1/2 ton (all original) 1951 Chevy 1/2 ton (future streetrod) 1941 Chevy coupe 1938 Chevy coupe streetrod | | |
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