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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,072 Posts1,055,906 Members48,429 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Aug 2008 Posts: 88 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Aug 2008 Posts: 88 | Tearing down my 52 half ton front hubs to check the bearings,brakes,kinpins...and the center section separated from the brake drum. It was attached by a 7/16 bolt thru one of the holes where I think a rivet used to be. The brake drum looks more like a rear drum than a front drum. Any ideas? Is this a part from a different vehicle? http://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h416/ssgummersall07/IMG_20110520_102256.jpg
Last edited by ADspudnut; 05/20/2011 5:35 PM.
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 2,393 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 2,393 | Looks right to me. The hub will separate easily from the drum if the studs are worn at the shoulder or installed studs with the wrong sized shoulder. Just had to replace the studs recently on my '50 3100. I don't recall any rivets. I'm guessing they probably separated before and the PO used a bolt to keep that from happening.
Drew
| | | | | Joined: Aug 2008 Posts: 88 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Aug 2008 Posts: 88 | Ok, just wnat to make sure I'm not running separate hubs on each side. The rivets hold the hub center section to the brake drum. There are three of them and they come through the small holes in between the wheel stud holes on the drum. I think I'll knock out the other two and put stove bolts in all three holes.
Last edited by ADspudnut; 05/20/2011 7:31 PM.
| | | | | Joined: Jul 2001 Posts: 3,887 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Jul 2001 Posts: 3,887 | all/most of the front drums were originally riveted to the hubs - it is not necessary and using bolts instead is not necessary - maybe not adviseable either
Bill | | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 | maybe not adviseable either Aftermarket/later wheels will be an issue if bolts are installed, or the rivets are left in. Those wheels tend not to have the clearance for them, and will not seat properly to the hub.
Bill Burmeister | | | | | Joined: Aug 2008 Posts: 88 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Aug 2008 Posts: 88 | Thanks for the advice. I'm using stock wheels but I'll go without the bolts and rely on the lug nuts to hold it all together...just like the rear wheels | | | | | Joined: Feb 2003 Posts: 452 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2003 Posts: 452 | The nice thing about separate drums, you don't have to pull the bearings to check or replace the shoes. Huck brakes are like that, as are many others (rear drums on the wife's 89 Z24, for example). My huck brakes have 2 flat-head machine screws counter-sunk in the drum to hold it to the hub when the wheel is off. The wheel and lug nuts hold it together when running.
Current fleet (subject to change w/o notice) \'49 GMC 3/4-Ton , 60 Austin Healey Frog-eye Sprite (some assembly required), 2011 Dodge Avenger, 2015 Jeep Cherokee. No, they don't all run. My other ride is a (B737)no, (B767)no, A320.... Update... was Embraer E190, now Boeing B787. Knowledge is a wonderful thing, but ignorance means you don't know you can't do something.
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