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| | | Forums66 Topics128,035 Posts1,055,441 Members48,422 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
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For helping keep this great
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Oct 2010 Posts: 97 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Oct 2010 Posts: 97 | Odered upper shift linkage bushings for 56 3200 3 spd on column. Rubber gromett style with a steel bushing in the center. Used a tamper punch to spread the steel bushing and tapped it on the pin. Then I could not get the rubber to go in the hole on the arm. Started measuring the fittings & the holes. They really don't matchup. Is there a trick with the new repop bushings? Like triming one side. My arms have hole with a rimmed edge (like a small washer had been added to the outside of the hole). The rubber gromett part of the bushing is 5/8" od on the center part and the holes in the arms are 1/2". Are the bushings correct or do I have the correct arms? | | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 | I had the same problem. From what I can tell, those are actually for a passenger car, instead of truck. Why they sell them for the trucks instead of a correct part is beyond me. If you're going to attempt to use them, the best advise I can give is to lube them up before you install them, use dish soap or silicone lube. I ended up going a different route with mine, as they didn't hold up very well. I have bronze bushings installed on the arms, makes the shifts very precise, no slop at all. Shifter bushings 1 Shifter bushings 2 Shifter bushings 3
Bill Burmeister | | | | | Joined: Jul 2001 Posts: 3,887 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Jul 2001 Posts: 3,887 | hard to say just what you've got, but there are bronze bushings available at some FLAPS that work well for both ends of the shift arms in place of any with rubber, which never lasts very long .... you do not want those arms to be a real tight fit at either end, and any real slop can be taken up with a washer under the cotter pin
Bill | | | | | Joined: Oct 2010 Posts: 97 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Oct 2010 Posts: 97 | To Both Bills - I have decided to go and check into brass bushings for my arms. A neighbor today said he used to carry a supply in his wifes glove box because the rubber would wear out so soon in her car in the late 50s. Thanks guys. AGAIN!!
PS: the pictures were very helpfull | | | | | Joined: Sep 2008 Posts: 18 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Sep 2008 Posts: 18 | Hi guys, can you tell me where you got either the rubber or bronze bushings for this? I'm looking for the same thing. thank you. | | | | | Joined: Jul 2001 Posts: 3,887 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Jul 2001 Posts: 3,887 | check your FLAPS, maybe the HELP! rack, up here they come from GENO Industries Products in Montreal, #15-83-5712(14549) is what's on the package, don't know if the same is distributed south
Bill | | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 | Mine came from a Farm & Fleet store, back in the tractor parts section. Don't recall the part numbers, I went by size.
Bill Burmeister | | | | | Joined: Oct 2010 Posts: 97 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Oct 2010 Posts: 97 | I got the busings made a a local shop. He had a small piece of 5/8" Brass rod left and turned them down to 35/64" And drilled the inside to 11/32". He did not put the flange ends on and that made it harder to hold every thing. I would recomend a flange bearing style for easy of installation. The wrong rubber one, I got from LMC. I ordered a set of rubber one from Classic just to see- and they are CORRECT! | | | | | Joined: May 2008 Posts: 194 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: May 2008 Posts: 194 | on my 57 3100 3 speed the two ends of the shift rod require 2 different sizes of bushings. I bought 2 types from Classic and one kind of fit. I also bought another type elsewhere with a metal sleeve and it does not really fit.
This one does not seem to fit anything "91-062 shift tube control grommet. Used on the arms at the end of the steering column that the control rods go in. 2 required for 3 spd. and 1 for powerglide. 1/2" ID Sold each ". Anyone know what that is really for? Does not fit either end of the control box levers or the levers on the 3 speed transmision. These are way too big a hole.
91-061 Shift Lever bushings "Shift linkage bushings at lower steering column. Removes play for smoother, more positive shifts. " These seem to fit the top levers at the control box fairly well and are harder rubber like they might last a while.
But those do not fit the transmission end levers as the rods have smaller ends and they would require a metal bushing. you could maybe use the sleeves from the set below 47-05008 to make it work. That is what I think I am doing.
I ordered some "47-05008 47-59 column shift, includes metal sleeve 4 required" from "truck and car shop" (they are slow to ship and back order all the time. do not like them. but this part is too small (not deep enough) you have to cut one end of the rubber flange off and force it in. It kind of fits for the transmission side and is a bit loose without the metal sleeve for the bigger control box side of the rod ends. The rubber is pretty soft.
But none of these seem to be totally correct on there own except the 91-061 Shift Lever bushings. They are hard rubber and fit the rod ends at the control box but not the transmission ends as they still require a sleeve/bushing insert to fill the extra space as that end is smaller.
| | | | | Joined: May 2008 Posts: 194 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: May 2008 Posts: 194 | The 91-061 Shift Lever bushings from classic fit the levers ont he control box perfectly. And they also fit with some forcing the levels on the 3 speed transmission. On the transmission they are a bit looser as the metal sleeves from the other set i mentioned would not fit in the rubber bushing as it was just too tight.
But just using the rubber bushings seems to work if backed up with a washer under the cotter pins.
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