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| | | | Joined: Jan 2011 Posts: 42 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Jan 2011 Posts: 42 | What are my options to eliminate the center support drive shaft bearing?? I would like to use a full length drive shaft without center support.. 4 speed manual Trans not original to truck & not sure what model its from also, but its bolted to a 283 in a 56 Chevy p/u 1/2ton Pictures: trans1 trans2 trans3
Last edited by fleetsidebed5859; 05/03/2011 6:41 AM.
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2004 Posts: 1,897 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2004 Posts: 1,897 | No problem, any competant shop can make one. Since there is no slip joint on the transmission, it has to be in the driveshaft. I have a 1 piece driveline in my 1959 gmc longbed with NV4500, but My transmission uses a slip yoke. I removed the carrier bearing and crossmember for the new transmission, and have over 25,000 miles with the combo. | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 . | | . Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 | Depending on the length a single piece driveshaft may be unsafe and unsuitable. They can only be so long and not flex and fly apart, that's why they use multiple shafts on longer trucks. Thicker wall and larger diameter can allow a longer shaft to a point... there are a lot of variables, before just deciding you want a single piece driveshaft consult with a reputable driveshaft builder and see if they can make one to work in your application. Or you can read the manuals and get a pretty good idea yourself. http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/driveline/setup/index.htmlGrigg | | | | | Joined: Jan 2011 Posts: 42 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Jan 2011 Posts: 42 | its not that long overall , i think ive seen longer before.. but yes safety is a concern.. oh i have a "short bed" not long bed.. Depending on the length a single piece driveshaft may be unsafe and unsuitable. They can only be so long and not flex and fly apart, that's why they use multiple shafts on longer trucks. Thicker wall and larger diameter can allow a longer shaft to a point... there are a lot of variables, before just deciding you want a single piece driveshaft consult with a reputable driveshaft builder and see if they can make one to work in your application. Or you can read the manuals and get a pretty good idea yourself. http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/driveline/setup/index.htmlGrigg | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 . | | . Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 | I was only cautioning that you should investigate if it'll work safely before you jump in and do it. Your truck had a two piece driveshaft for a reason, so before switching to one piece be sure you can have one made to actually do the job and last.
The Driveline Tech Tip has some great links in it if you're curious why and how driveshafts are made the way they are, also info to help you calculate the max length of a shaft if you know RPM, tube diameter and wall thickness.
A second opinion from a shop that is qualified to build driveshafts would be good too.
Grigg | | | | | Joined: Jan 2011 Posts: 42 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Jan 2011 Posts: 42 | I here you Grigg. Just questioning this as this is NOT the driveline parts that came with this truck, I believe this one came with a 6 not a V8 thats in it now.. I was only cautioning that you should investigate if it'll work safely before you jump in and do it. Your truck had a two piece driveshaft for a reason, so before switching to one piece be sure you can have one made to actually do the job and last.
The Driveline Tech Tip has some great links in it if you're curious why and how driveshafts are made the way they are, also info to help you calculate the max length of a shaft if you know RPM, tube diameter and wall thickness.
A second opinion from a shop that is qualified to build driveshafts would be good too.
Grigg | | | | | Joined: May 2004 Posts: 1,312 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2004 Posts: 1,312 | As Bigbadswingdaddy said, and driveline shop should be able to fabricate a new 1 piece shaft with no issues. It needs to be properly welded, and balanced. The 283 is not putting out too much torque. Go for it | | | | | Joined: Jul 2010 Posts: 10 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Jul 2010 Posts: 10 | you need a slip joint to remove the driveshaft. if you make that a one peice where would you have a slipjoint? also it needs to change lengths when the rear end goes up and down with the bumps. just my thoughts. WW | | | | | Joined: Feb 2011 Posts: 1,363 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2011 Posts: 1,363 | Short beds always had a single drive line, unless its a 4X4.
Kicking self for selling off my Taskforce trucks.
Still looking for an LCF or conventional big bolt in decent shape.
As of 10-26-2022, A 55.2 Taskforce long bed now the work begins
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2008 Posts: 293 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2008 Posts: 293 | Just take your truck to a pro driveline shop, they will take a look and tell you what can be done properly: easy!
A driveshaft is not something you ca make yourself anyway, so...
A driveline shop may be hard to find, usually most of their business is with heavy commercial truck or drag-racers, if this helps you find one.
Last edited by wave1957; 05/04/2011 1:14 AM.
'57 Chevy Suburban; '70 Chevy Impala.
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2011 Posts: 42 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Jan 2011 Posts: 42 | Got what i was looking for
Ebay item # 280399586200 about $180 bucks to my door...
Last edited by fleetsidebed5859; 05/04/2011 3:25 PM.
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2004 Posts: 1,897 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2004 Posts: 1,897 | Wow, that's a phenominal deal! I paid twice that to have my shaft made, and I ended up having to have it made 3 times at that price locally. Check it carefully for straightness. I had a slight banana in mine and it caused all sorts of issues. | | |
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