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Mod | | Forums66 Topics126,781 Posts1,039,301 Members48,100 | Most Online2,175 Jul 21st, 2025 | | | Joined: Mar 2007 Posts: 66 Wrench Fetcher | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Mar 2007 Posts: 66 | Can anyone provide guidance for installing windshield and rear window of 1952 Chevy PU? When and where does the mastic come into the process? Is it necessary?
Also, I broke a door glass while trying to get the wing assembly in( major frustration, poor language, and walking away for a few hours), any help on that would be appreciated, too. | | | | Joined: Apr 2010 Posts: 35 New Guy | New Guy Joined: Apr 2010 Posts: 35 | The back glass is really tight, it definitely helps to have two people. I actually didn't lube it up at all, but it would have helped I am sure. I basically got one end or corner started an had a screw driver to help get the rubber over the lip. Be very careful cause I popped it off and smacked the glass and luckily didn't break it. It took us maybe 20 min or so. I also remember putting a lot of pressure on it with your hand staying flat, like you got to caress it and wiggle it to help it set in the rubber and the groove.
The door glass with wings wasn't that bad, but I would be (upset) if I broke the glass too, that is 30 bucks plus shipping for an new piece, plus clean up. Obviously you gotta try again, just be patient I guess and find the "right" angle to slide it in at.
Windshield is actually pretty easy. Get your rubber laid out on the ground, put your glass in it. Then key is to get a small rope not too thin and not too thick, stuff it in the groove that will be mating with the cab. Make sure you leave the excess rope on the inside of the windshield. Then have someone help you set it in place, have them push very lightly from outside and you on the inside, pull the rope and watch how the rubber slides right over the lip. IT is very easy and fast doing it this way, but definitely is nice to have someone on the outside putting pressure on it and following you as you pull the rope.
Last edited by cletis; 04/21/2011 5:53 PM. Reason: Language
| | | | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall | Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 | kevin, there is a link in the tech tips that will take you to the Online shop manual project (if you do not have a shop manual) and it will help you some to. Those vent window assemblies are a little aggravating to say the least but after putting one in 3 or 4 times I finally got good at it.... now don't ask me why I had to take it out....well, one reason was a broken glass that the glass shop cut wrong!! | | | | Joined: Sep 2005 Posts: 1,028 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2005 Posts: 1,028 | Kevin, The door glass does require some finesse but patience is the key. I believe I started the vent frame in with the window down and rolled it up as I was sliding the vent frame down. I have done mine each twice ...they are not fun.
The windshield is the easiest to do. I sealed mine with butyl windshield sealer after I installed it (as I had leaks). I have never been able to do the rope trick. I just pull the rubber over the frame with my fingers and a pliers. The rear window was the toughest for me. It took a lot of duct tape (holding the rubber on the glass) and the help of my 2 kids to have enough hands to get it in the frame. It just seamed that the rubber was impossible to handle. Installing the key is also tough but I sealed this window with silicone sealer. Good luck Rich
| | | | Joined: Mar 2008 Posts: 3,750 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2008 Posts: 3,750 | The rear window was the toughest for me. It took a lot of duct tape (holding the rubber on the glass) and the help of my 2 kids to have enough hands to get it in the frame. It just seamed that the rubber was impossible to handle. Installing the key is also tough but I sealed this window with silicone sealer. Good luck Rich Rich, your first mistake was to put the rubber on the glass, how then did you fit it,did you use the string method? That's possibly why it was fighting you all the way. The rear rubber is not designed for this type of installation. Here's how the rears should be done. I'm suprised your rubber didn't tear. Rear window install.It's good you got it done,but ran the risk of cracking your glass.
Last edited by jockbolter50; 04/23/2011 7:30 AM.
1950 Chevy Advance Design 3100 in ScotlandIn the Stovebolt GalleryMore pix on Flickr. I've definately got this truck thing in my blood ... my DNA sequence has torque settings"Of all the small nations of this earth,perhaps only the ancient Greeks surpass the Scots in their contribution to mankind" Winston Churchill.
| | | | Joined: Sep 2005 Posts: 1,028 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2005 Posts: 1,028 | Jock
I did not realize that the gasket was cemented to the truck first. That does seem easier. Mine came out fine and has never leaked it was just a bear to install my way.
Thanks Rich
| | | | Joined: Mar 2007 Posts: 66 Wrench Fetcher | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Mar 2007 Posts: 66 | Did you use cement on the rubber gasket to adhere it toi the frame? | | | | Joined: Mar 2008 Posts: 3,750 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2008 Posts: 3,750 | Personally,I normally fit them dry,then using a caulking gun,inject a product called Arbomast between the body/rubber,and then the rubber/glass. It makes the installation process easier and cleaner. Arbomast is a non aggressive,silicon free,non setting glazing compound,you can also use urethane,although it can be messier! I'd definately consider doing the fronts,the rubber profile is very basic compared to more modern styles and could probably use some help. I'm leaving my rear glass dry as I think it'll be OK.(I'm sure it'll prove me wrong!)  If it is the fronts I simply clean off the excess/ooze with glass cleaner,a plastic scraper and finally with paint shop panel wipe. With the rears I apply the sealer before the filler/lock strip goes in(much easier) then clean up in the same manner. JMO. 1950 Chevy Advance Design 3100 in ScotlandIn the Stovebolt GalleryMore pix on Flickr. I've definately got this truck thing in my blood ... my DNA sequence has torque settings"Of all the small nations of this earth,perhaps only the ancient Greeks surpass the Scots in their contribution to mankind" Winston Churchill.
| | | | Joined: Mar 2007 Posts: 66 Wrench Fetcher | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Mar 2007 Posts: 66 | I've been trying to preform the gasket on the rear glass before forming it to the cab, but it is really stubborn and keeps falling off. FRUSTRATION! | | | | Joined: Mar 2008 Posts: 3,750 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2008 Posts: 3,750 | Patience Grasshopper.......
Joking apart Kevin,it can be frustrating. Try and fit the rubber to the cab aperature and if necessary use some masking tape to hold it,as I mention in my guide try and 'cram' the rubber as you go to ensure it's good and tight on the pinchweld. Cut your ends as square as you can and allow an 1/8th to 1/4" oversize to allow for shrinkage and apply a small dab of rubber adhesive or superglue at a push. I use urethane as it's what I've usually got to hand. 1950 Chevy Advance Design 3100 in ScotlandIn the Stovebolt GalleryMore pix on Flickr. I've definately got this truck thing in my blood ... my DNA sequence has torque settings"Of all the small nations of this earth,perhaps only the ancient Greeks surpass the Scots in their contribution to mankind" Winston Churchill.
| | | | Joined: Mar 2007 Posts: 66 Wrench Fetcher | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Mar 2007 Posts: 66 | Thanks, I'll be back at it tomorrow. | | |
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