The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 216 Reinstalling Crank HELPPPPPPPPPPPP

I had the crank turned 10/10 and order new 10 under bearings. As described I replaced each bearing new shims starting from the front to the rear checking the fit with plasti gage and torqueing bolts to 95 ft lbs. After everything checked out the crank rotated very smoothly no drag at all. I then removed everything and added the rear seal and reassemled. Now I cannot by hand move the crank.

Sounds right, and it sounds like you might just have a seal that won't leak, at least for a while. The rope seals aren't like the spring loaded rubber lip seals, they actually act like a little break band till it's lapped in after a few hundred miles. Just make sure that your main cap is closing down on the shims all the way and that the seal is not holding it from closing.
Just to make sure it's the seal, I'd back off the rear main to see of the rest of the brgs are free, that would pretty much confirm that it is indeed the rope seal thats putting the binders on the rotation.
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

Had the same problem and did what Denny said. Turned out that one of the main bearing was flipped around. Facing the wrong way.

I did back off the rear cap and it did turn freely. The other question could not having all 4 bolts on the rear cap cause it to bind?

That is a good question. I wouldn't try that so I don't know the answer. Did you lube the seal on the crank surface a bit? If not, you might want to do that.