The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Glass Bowl Fuel Pump Questions

I'm coming to you for more advice - -

Two questions -

1) Is the Classic Parts #82-232 glass bowl fuel pump that I have the correct one for my '54 3100 235 Rochester B?

2) What glass bowl fuel pump do I need for my truck?

I currently have a metal top fuel pump on my '54. Works well, but I want to change to a glass bowl pump. I'm confused by the photos, descriptions, and year ranges shown by suppliers.

I bought the glass bowl pump in 1999 (I tend to procrastinate) from Chevy Duty - now Classic Parts. It was listed for '47-'54 trucks when I bought it. Now it is listed for '47-'51 ... not '54.

I had the pump installed on my truck last month, but it didn't work according to the shop, so they reinstalled my original pump. I opened the top and brushed some light oil on the diaphram where it meets the case and screwed the screws down tight. I ran a line to the pump and manually pumped it. The bowl filled and it pumped gas out of the outlet. I don't want to install it again if it is not the right pump. And I don't want to buy a new one if this one is correct and may work.

Seems like each parts house lists a different range of years for glass bowl pumps. Some have the inlet and outlet running parallel to the engine block, some have them at an angle, with the outlet angled toward the block.

My metal top pump has the inlet and outlet at an angle to the engine block. Old pic before I installed a road draft tube.

The 1954 Shop Manual kinda shows the lines at an angle to the block (not sure). But the '47-'54 Assembly Manual shows the lines parallel to the block. Sect 6, Sheet 6.

Classic Parts no longer offers a glass bowl pump for '54 trucks. The metal top pump for '52-'57 has the in and out at an angle to the block. The '53-'57 glass bowl pump from Chevs of the 40's also has them at an angle.

The Classic Parts '47-'51 in and out are parallel to the block. (This is the pump that I have.) The in and out on the American Classic and Jim Carter's '37-'62 glass bowl pumps are also parallel to the block.

By the way, how can I keep the tank from draining out when I remove the line? I read in an old post that there is a cut-off valve for the gas line from the tank - don't see it under the truck.

Thanks in advance for your knowledge and suggestions.

Shutoff valve us usually at the tank under the cab right where the line exits.

Sounds like you have all you need to put together a glass bowl fuel pump.

Take the working pump on your engine, remove the 6 screws holding the top half on, discard that top half (or save for later)....
Do same with glass bowl fuel pump, and install that top half on old pump....

Grigg

i use golf tees to plug fuel oil and brake lines

A '54 doesn't have a fuel shut-off. That is the first year for the top feed tank. I use a short piece of hose with a bolt in it.

Some of the pumps have the inlet and outlet ports directly across from each other parallel to the side of the engine and others are on an angle. Either can be made to work if you don't mind a bit of fuel line bending but be aware that not all sediment bowl fuel pump tops are the same.

> Grigg -
That's too easy.
The metal top pump has two screws on the top. Kinda like this. What do they connect to? Will the bottom still be able to mate up with the upper part of my glass bowl pump?

> Tiny -
I just read your post. What do I need to check before trying to mate the two pumps together in unholy matrimony?

> cletis and rgie -
Thanks for confirming. I knew that I didn't see a shutoff. If I can use the upper part of my glass bowl pump, I won't need to unhook the line. Otherwise I'll try a golf tee, plugged hose, or my thumb.

Thanks,

It's pretty simple actually. Just check the port positions and make sure they are the same on the top you're going to swap onto the base. If not get ready to do some line bending or obtain a compatible top. I did a similar swap with an angle top & straight bottom. I make it work by turning the top to line the ports up, which ended up twisting the diaphragm. It worked for a while but soon the diaphragm gave up the ghost. If you have a good hole punch set you might be able to re-cut the screw holes in the diaphragm & avoid the twisting. I don't have a punch set so I hillbilly engineered as noted above. Won't do that again.

What about the two screws in the top of the metal-top pump? Do they prevent the glass top from mating up? I see that some pumps have them and some don't.

The angle of the ports is different on the two pumps.

If I can't get my glass bowl pump to work and I can't get the Frankenpump to work, what glass bowl pump should I buy? From what supply house?

I'll buy new fuel and vac lines when I buy the pump.

Seems like the more I learn, the more questions I have!

I,m new here, but I went to get a new pump for my '62 235, and the nice man at NAPA sold me one that looked a heck gee whiz lot like a 230/250/292 one, well it worked. I also would like one of those neat lookin' dooflinkies with the looking glass, but seems noone at any FLAPS has them,while I'm at, does ANYONE know how to mount an air cleaner on a 1962 235 "B" Roch. that has no stud in it to put a butterfly nut on to hold down the air cleaner??

Here's another idea. On my Suburban I built block off plates for the glass bowl pump and put an electric fuel pump near the tank. The fuel still goes through the settlement bowl and it looks stock from under the hood.

I've been too lazy to do a write-up on it but here's some pictures.

You can buy the glass pump at Jim Carter Truck Parts for $55.

The filter I believe clamps onto the carb. I tried to take it off today (gotta rebuild the carb) and I noticed that when I unscrewed the wingnut, the filter housing would not lift off.

HERE is a great picture! #2 in the listing http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chev...ruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_500wt_1055


BY THE WAY: Ordered a bunch of random stuff for both my trucks the other day from jim carter. Glass bowl rebuild kits are now a WHOPPING $45! The dude said they went from $24 (as listed) to $45 in about a month! They can send me a reman unit W/ core for $55!

I just put on a new one that my dad bought a long time ago, so I though I would just rebuild the old one so I can put a glass one on my 1959. guess not!

Check it out: http://secure.oldchevytrucks.com/Fuel-Pumps-Fuel-Pump-Kits/products/905/

I sometimes over-think a simple project. I want to give you some more info to ponder before I create "Frankenpump" by mating the bottom of my '54 metal top fuel pump with the top of my '51 glass bowl pump (#1523429 AC-429).

Grigg, Tiny, and anyone else who has done something similar: Did you mate pumps from the same year or different years?

I measured the diameter and screw spacing of the two pumps. They match.
Here are pics or a slideshow of the two pumps.

If you're bored, read on for details ...

I researched the Master Parts Catelogs, my '54 Shop Manual and Assembly Manual, plus '55(2nd) and early '50s Shop Manuals. The in/out ports were changed from parallel-to-the-block to angled-to-the-block in '52. GM sold 20deg angled fittings (#3707972) to allow the angled port fuel pumps to be used on pre-52 trucks. In '55 the pump was changed to metal top and still had angled ports.

The correct part number for 1954 was #5592627, "Angle Outlet" AC-9798 and AC-9832.

Looks like there are not a lot of '54 glass bowl pumps available. I found a few '52-'54 pumps on Ebay. All will need rebuilding.
Chevs of the 40's is the only supply house I have found that has the correct pump - rebuilt for $90 + $30 core.
All of the other houses either have metal top pumps with angled ports for '54 or pre-'52 reproductions with ports parallel to the engine block.

I gotta get off my duff and perform this marriage.

====

> Tiny - I don't see any reason to twist the diaphram on the pump. 'Course I haven't opened up the metal top pump yet.

> cletis - That's a good looking solution. I'll stay with a mechanical pump for now.

> austinaubinoe - The Jim Carter pump has ports that are parallel to the block.

> OOPS, I made a stupid comment when I said that I would not need to remove the fuel lines when I create Frankenpump.

Thanks for your help,

I guess when I switched my pump around several years ago I either didn't have to deal with or didn't care about the angle on the ports. All I was after was function, and until a moment ago didn't know the different years had different angles.....

Also should mention that the pump bottom I used at the time was a new one from NAPA and the glass top was an old/original one.

Also, if you're looking foe a glass bowl pump or the top to swap check out the flea markets and swap meets. They are plentiful, and if all you want is the top it makes no difference what the bottom fits.

Grigg

Thanks Grigg,

Like I said, it justs seems too easy. I guess I needed to hear it again in order to get my confidence up to proceed. I'll do it this week.

I have a good working pump with the correct angled ports on the engine. The glass top is new.

I'll post the results.

Frankenpump is alive and pumping! I mated the glass-bowl top half onto the bottom half of my metal-top pump. Looks like it has always been a 1954 glass-bowl pump.

Grigg and Tiny - I will never doubt you again as long as I live. It just looked too simple to be true.

I have ordered new fuel and vac lines, a glass bowl AC fuel filter, clips for the lines, and a bakelite insulator for the carb to finish the installation.

> Any suggestions for finding a 60deg fitting for the filter-to-carb connection?
Accessories Installation Manual directions.
Accessories Installation Manual diagram.

Thanks again for your help.