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| | | Joined: Jan 2009 Posts: 256 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2009 Posts: 256 | My fuel gauge stopped working today, and I'm stumped. The gauge is tight again the cluster housing, and has rubber washers so it doesn't ground. The gauge has 12v going to the runtz reducer, which goes to the stud on the gauge. The other stud has the wire going to the sender, which I have unhooked for testing.
There is 12v going to the input of the runtz yet I don't have anything coming out the other side. I had this exact problem with a reducer I was using before, so i thought it had gone bad.
The gauge obviously doesn't even move a little, it is somehow showing no power when there is power before the runtz.
What!? | | | | | Joined: Aug 2010 Posts: 368 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2010 Posts: 368 | Fern: I just put my gas gauge in my 54,and was re-wiring at the same time. I had a question about the wiring so I called the tech. line...the tech guy told me to make sure my gauge WAS grounded. If you look at the back of the gauge you will see either a small plate or raised bumps..these need to make contact with you housing...NOTE metal to metal...no paint...How do I know...had to remove housing from dash and sand PAINTED area to bare metal. Then put back together and make sure I have good contact between housing and dash. Try that and see what happens....also, there have been posts about how to check gauge to make sure it is working...It's been asked so much it should be the FAQ or tech tip area... Good Luck. http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i381/snipewarrior/Internal%20Parts/P1010070.jpg | | | | | Joined: Jan 2009 Posts: 256 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2009 Posts: 256 | Jimmi, I did the same thing, installed it than realized I didn't have the gauge grounded. The gauge worked for a week, than stopped. Whats really confusing me is how I can be showing 12v before the runtz, but be showing 0v right after it. I would suspect a bad runtz, but I had a resistor that was doing the same thing, and I got rid of it thinking it was bad.
If I just run 12v to the runtz without the gauge connected to it, it gives me ~6v output. | | | | | Joined: Aug 2010 Posts: 368 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2010 Posts: 368 | Brother...your talking Greek to me..... My truck is 12 volt so I didn't have to worry about those things you said...? Wish I could help more.My wiring isn't complete..headlight switch broke while installing..great...so I don't know if mine works..
Good luck | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | Jimmi, Your 1954 truck is wired 12v but it came from the factory as a 6v electrical system. Unless the fuel gauge has been changed, it would be a 6v fuel gauge. While some people have never used a voltage reducer after converting to 12v, many other people believe a Runtz-style voltage reducer is needed to protect the 6v fuel gauge. Here's a fuel gauge diagnostic outline. | | | | | Joined: Aug 2010 Posts: 368 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2010 Posts: 368 | Tim, Thanks for the concern...I bought a new set of gauges for the truck. 12 v gas gauge included.
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