The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk Question on axle removal/steering arm

The Blue Funk needs to have its kinpins replaced. I've studied the procedure in the Tech Tips and in the Manual. I'm currently at the point of "Disconnect(ing the) steering connection rod from the steering arm."

Now, I've read the trials, tribulations, and frustrations others have had of of disconnecting the steering rod and removing the kingpins. I'm considering removing the axle and having a machine shop replace the kingpins.

My question is: Couldn't I just remove the axle WITHOUT disconnecting the steering connection rod from the steering arm? There appears to be enough room and play in the area of the connections to merely drop the axle and slide it out without disconnecting anything else.

What do you think? Your input is appreciated.

If you mean the link between both sides, I don't see it as a problem. If you mean the link between the steering box and the axle, yes it has to be disconnected.

You will need strip everything off the spindles. Then drop the axle if you're taking it to a machine shop.

No part of the steering mechanism is directly connected to the axle/splindles. The steering arm attached by way of two bolts to the backplate, which has been removed.

No, you don't have to disconnect the "drag link" from the steering arms. Once you unbolt the steering arms from the backing plates, just turn the steering wheel all the way to the right, and let the steering arms/tie rod/drag link assembly just lay on the floor still connected to each other. I wired the backing plates and wheel cylinders up to a fender bolt so I didn't have to undo the brake hoses 'cause I didn't want to re-bleed the brakes. Then undo the u-bolts and slide the axle out.

The "drag link" is termed "steering connection rod" in the Manual, eh waldo53?

Thanks for the information and clarification.

Yes, the drag link and the steering connection rod are the same animal. Type "drag link" into the search box and you can read all about it.

Update: Once I dropped the axle, I had no problem in sliding it out without disconnecting the drag link from the steering arm.

The axle is off to the NAPA machine shop to have the kingpins replaced. Cost: $40. Kingpins: $75, give or take.

I am now wondering about the necessity of disconnecting the drag link from the pitman arm when doing a steering wheel adjustment. Is the disconnection necessary in order to make an accurate adjustment?

Yes, if you don't remove either the Pitman arm or the drag link it won't be possible to get an accurate measurement of the torque rise across the center point of the worm gear. Normally, you're looking for an increase of 10 inch-lb. as the steering rolls over center. With the linkage attached, the measurement won't be accurate.
Jerry

Hot Rod Lincoln is right. I took mine out and did the steering box adjustment in the shop. It wasn't particularly difficult. A complete disassembly of the steering parts gives you that chance to make sure the shafts on the balls at the tie rod ends and drag link aren't about worn thru as mine were. This is another place where wear will give you looseness in the steering action. If the balls and their springs and cups aren't right, you will have loose steering even after the work on kingpins and steering box.

I got excellent results by following the adjustment instructions in the Shop Manual. I used a fish scale from Walmart to measure the load on the steering- gear (1 to 1.5 lbs - step 3). Be sure to follow all steps in the Shop Manual - steps 1-6.

Probably the easiest way to do this is to go back to NAPA and get a pitman arm puller (get the best one they have), they might even have one to loan out. Once the Pitman arm is off you can take all the attached steering components over to a workbench and inspect/dissasemble as needed. Then do the procedure for adjusting the steering box.

Thanks for the feedback Jerry, Ron.

I've purchased both a ball joint separator and a pitman arm puller and reviewed the steering connecting rod (drag link)removal process in the Manual.

The Manual designates an "axle end" and a "gear end", which is a little confusing, since the drag link connects to the pitman arm and the steering arm. Can you relieve my confusion?

To disconnect the drag link, I remove the cotter pin, back off the screw plug, and pull the drag link off of the pitman arm.

I've played with the positioning of the ball joint separator. It would seem that the forked end is against the pitman arm, in between it and the drag link end. The single sided end of the separator is on the outside of the drag link end with the legs of the separator pointing downward.

Does this sound correct?

Thanks.

I didn't mean to ignore you, Tim, Waldo53... just didn't see your posts until after I had submitted my previous one.

Yeah, Tim, I've reviewed the adjustment instructions in the manual. I'm taking it one step at a time. Obviously, I'm on step one.

I've read where others have had some problems with removing the drag link or pulling the pitman arm, so I'm doing as much research as possble before jumping in.

Thanks for the advice and directions, waldo53.

I'm resubmitting theses questions:

Davey Do,
In the Chevy truck shop manual, in section 3, front suspension 3-4, figure 3 shows the drag link or steering connecting rod. If you look at it closely the end they designate as the gear end (that connects to the pitman arm) the opening for the ball is offset closer to the end than the axle end (that connects to the steering arm). The springs and seats are also arranged differently in each end as shown in the diagram. I have the older type balls on my steering arms so I didn't need a ball joint separator. I just unscrewed the plug on the end and took them apart.

Thanks for the clarification, Huck.

I guess I'm a little confused here- You say that since you have the older type balls on your steering arms, you were able to just take them apart?

It seems to me, that from past posts I've read, separating the drag link from the pitman arm can be a real pain.

Do you understand my confusion?

Thanks again.

Davey Do, since your truck is a '51 you also have the older style joints that Huck is referring to. In '53 they changed to the "mocern" style. You won't need a special tool to seperate yours, just take them apart. Maybe this page from the Chevs of the 40's catalog will shed some light on the subject (scroll down to the "drag link" section).

Thanks for the clarification on the older style/"mocern" style there, waldo53. I guess the newer style were the bears to get apart, eh?

The drag link pic on the Chevs of the 40's looks a lot like a diagram in the 48-51 Manual on the steering connecting rod.

Thanks again, guys.

o.k. so my keyboard doesn't know how to spell modern!!

Thanks for the clarification, waldo53.

Just to show you what kind of novice I am, I sincerely believed thet "mocern" was a newer type of steering.

I had no real point of reference for mocern. I do have a point of reference for modern.

Sounds like you're ball joint separator is a pickle fork and not a puller, if so do not use it on the pitman arm,You will damage the steering box by hammering on it.

The joint separator does not use a hammering force. It uses a mechanical force to separate the joints.

Davey, as long as you've got the drag link disconnected from the Pitman arm, there's really no need to remove the Pitman arm from the steering gear. Disconnecting the linkage anywhere just eliminates the drag that the linkage puts on the steering gear while you're checking the sector preload. It's a lot easier to feel the high point when you're not moving tie rods, spindles, etc.
Jerry

So, basically I hear you saying that the reason the drag link is disconnected is because it's easier to sense a certain point in the turning of the steering wheel during the adjustment process?

Yes, especially when using an in/lb torque wrench on the steering wheel nut, the torque rise is hard to measure when the whole steering system is moving. Using the old standby fish-weighing scale pull on the steering wheel rim is not as accurate, but it's a pretty good field-expedient check as long as the front wheels are jacked up off the ground. I prefer the torque wrench method.
Jerry

Maybe I missed the torque wrench on the steering wheel nut method somewhere.

Aside from the obvious, I assume the technique is basically the same, save for using a torque wrench on the steering wheel nut in place of the fish scale on the steering wheel.

Okay- The drag link came off easily after removing the cap screw and spring from th eaxle end. I followed the adjustment procedure as described in the Manual and voila! The Blue Funk steers like, well almost, perfectly!

It's just amazing what happens if I read and follow the directions!

Thank you for your support.