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| | | Forums66 Topics128,020 Posts1,055,345 Members48,419 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
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For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Dec 2010 Posts: 64 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Dec 2010 Posts: 64 | I suspect that this has been asked and answered many times but here goes. I purchased a single wire 12V alternator from J.Carter and they cannot tell me what the 2 spad lug socket on the unit is for. Their opinion is just hook the main output to the battery and that's it. I'm guessing that Delco put those 2 terminals there for something...? Thanks, David | | | | | Joined: Jul 2001 Posts: 3,887 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Jul 2001 Posts: 3,887 | something for a different application maybe? one of them will be for an idiot light, I think the other is an exciter .... 10SI or 12? - Mad Electrical might ID the unit and has lots of alternator conversion info Bill | | | | | Joined: Nov 2007 Posts: 190 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2007 Posts: 190 | If it is a one wire alternator you would be able to hook up to the terminal on the rear of the alternator and it should charge when running. The regulator should be a self exciting regulator that excites from the rpms of the alternator turning. This eliminates the need for the exciter wire that plugs in. There is a block out plug available for those two terminals that really gives the alternator a cleaner look. PM me if you need one. Depending on what S.E. regulator they used it may take "goosing" the foot pedal once to increase rpms to get the alternator to kick in. Hope this helps. | | | | | Joined: Dec 2010 Posts: 64 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Dec 2010 Posts: 64 | Thanks to both of you. I'll just hook up the output line and go. Bill, I'm going to check out that link because I am curious about what they are there for. Ken,thanks for the offer on the block out plug but I am a long way off from that level of detail. Just trying to put together something to drive.
| | | | | Joined: Jul 2007 Posts: 328 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2007 Posts: 328 | Squeeze is right about MAD ELECTRICAL.
Compelling information there about alternator wiring as well as headlight connections. He saved my bacon with an alternator conversion for an old Rolls Royce... Replacement Rolls Royce alternator was $750!!!! He talked me thru converting it with a NAPA Chevy rebuilt for $69 !!
Smart man! Mike
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2003 Posts: 2,384 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2003 Posts: 2,384 | My 1 wire alternators have a rubber plug in the two-prong spot, sell for about $50 retail | | | | | Joined: Dec 2010 Posts: 64 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Dec 2010 Posts: 64 | Squeeze is REALLY right. That is a great link. It turns out that I was sold a "one wire" 10SI that is actually a 3 wire. Glad of it too. Back to reading about alternators. Thanks guys ! | | | | | Joined: Aug 2010 Posts: 368 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2010 Posts: 368 | My single wire is also 3 wire....I got a new wire harness and it instructed me to put plug into alternator..didn't know what to do with the black wire...called the tech line, I just had to attach it to the rear post...it self excites.... (Sounds like someone I know.. Hmmmmmmm) anyway good luck http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i381/snipewarrior/Internal%20Parts/P1010061.jpg | | |
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