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#732058 03/22/2011 3:09 AM
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,997
S
Big Bolt Forum Co-moderator
Big Bolt Forum Co-moderator
S Offline
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,997
I posted below asking about Eastwoods Fast Etch, but generally speaking what are the steps in repairing pitted sheet metal. The underside of my 48 two ton are pitted, as well as some of the splash pans under the radiator.
I am guessing, remove all rust by any means necessary. Then do you body fill the pits smooth?
So far working with rusted metal I have used the following:
Electrolysis: works well, but I will have to build a bigger vat to hold my parts.
Chemical Rust remover: Slow and messy with mixed results.
Molasses Bath: Again slow, really slow depending on the outside temperature. Vat size would have to be bigger too.
Wire Wheel on an angle grinder: works well, but doesn't get into the pits 100%.
Sand blasting: I only have a small portable compressor, and siphon gun. Don't have a place to set up a bigger unit even if I had the dough ray me.
What have others found to work best?
Will a pressure pot sand blaster work on a small compressor?
Thanks for any help or comments.


A day without laughter is a day wasted- Charlie Chaplin
When wrestling a grizzly bear, you have to keep at it until the bear gets tired, not when you get tired.

1948 Chevy 2-Ton
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,887
S
Cruising in the Passing Lane
Cruising in the Passing Lane
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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,887
the electrolytic bath gets things cleanest, a chem rust converter is a good idea to insure it's clean, then filler is the only way to get it smooth - sand blasting is good, but even that will sometimes leave oxide in deep pits, so the converter is still useful

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature we find it attached to the rest of the world" John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" me
Some TF series details & TF heater pics & Rust-a-holics Unanimous parking lot
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,997
S
Big Bolt Forum Co-moderator
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Yeah, think I'll build a big electrolysis vat that a fender could fit into. It's nice to put the part in and let the battery charger do the work. Someone on this site has built a big one. Think I'll go looking for the old post.

So can you put body filler over rust converter?

I was wondering if you can use body filler over Zero Rust. It has been a very good primer and paint on the parts I have done so far. Very tough.

Also, I know it's expensive, but that lizard skin sound deadener can be sanded and primed also. That would be nice on the under side of the fenders.


A day without laughter is a day wasted- Charlie Chaplin
When wrestling a grizzly bear, you have to keep at it until the bear gets tired, not when you get tired.

1948 Chevy 2-Ton
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,887
S
Cruising in the Passing Lane
Cruising in the Passing Lane
S Offline
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,887
all you have to do for a tank is make a box of plywood and lay some 6 mil poly sheet in it

I use Zero Rust, have done filler on top in a couple places, but it's just as well to do the filler on bare clean metal, and if you have whole pieces to clean metal the best bet for the long haul is to use epoxy primer .... for under fenders I like a good layer of rubberized roof tar, cheap and does the job

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature we find it attached to the rest of the world" John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" me
Some TF series details & TF heater pics & Rust-a-holics Unanimous parking lot
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 81
C
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
C Offline
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 81
Rustednuts in NW WA state built a large one, which I copied. I can not find his post but if you send me an e-mail to [email protected], I'll shoot you some pictures of mine


The CPA, never under estimate the value;
especially when he's driving an old Chevy truck!

1947 Chevy 1/2-Ton Advance Design in the Gallery

1951 Chevrolet 3100

Moderated by  klhansen 

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